Home Inspection FAQs

Chinese Drywall refers to tainted drywall imported from China which corrodes copper and metal surfaces, often gives off a foul odor, and can make you sick.

There have been a few reports that homes built by large, national builders (like Pulte Homes) may have this Chinese drywall installed, leaving some room for concern.

How would you know if you’re buying a home with this drywall?

1. Does the home smell like rotten eggs or ammonia?

2. Is it more noticeable when entering your home and then seems to dissipate?

3. Chinese drywall corrodes electrical wiring. Check the electrical receptacles in your walls to see if the wires are blackened by pulling off an outlet cover or switch plate and looking inside.n

Chinese drywall is also friable, which means very small particles can easily dislodge and get into our lungs.

This is why the toxic particulates often remain even after Chinese drywall is removed from your home.

This is a good, basic question. Many home buyers (and even agents) don’t exactly know what a home inspector does. So let me clear the smoke.

There are 2 aspects to every home inspection:

1st – A home inspection is a visual, non-intrusive, and fair effort to discover the real material condition of the home during the time and day the inspection takes place.

2nd – A home inspection isn’t really about the home inspector telling you what’s wrong with the home more than it is a discovery session for you to make sure you understand what you’re buying so that you can decide if it falls within your expectations and is a good fit for your situation.

You see, as a professional home inspector my job is to make sure I align the reality of the home’s condition with your expectations. If I can successfully do that, then I’ve done my job.

And that’s really it. It’s limited in scope by what can be seen and tested, which particularly applies to vacant homes where there is no past information so the inspector is forced to play detective and do the best they can during the short period of time that they’re there.

If time permits, you should be encouraged to take advantage of this rare opportunity to follow a professional around your home who will invite your questions, concerns, and impart key information and advice that will certainly help you buy your home with confidence.

At the very least, it should involve the inspection of the:

1. Landscaping
Grading and drainage	Driveways
Walkways	Porches
Decks	Patios
Walkouts	Terraces

2. Exterior
Retaining walls	Foundation
Siding, flashing, and trim	Chimneys
Windows	Window wells
Exterior doors	Exterior lighting
Outlets and switches	Ceiling fans

3. Cooling System
A/C or heat pump?	Condenser unit
Refrigerant lines	Evaporator unit
Air distribution system	Operating controls

4. Roof
Gutters and downspouts	Soffits and fascias
Roof covering	Roof ventilation
Flashings	Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations

5. Carport
Floor	Walls
Guardrail	Ceiling
Lighting	Circuit wires
Outlets	Access doors

6. Attic
Roof structure	Insulation
Attic access	Ventilation, fans, and exhaust
Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations	Circuit wiring

7. All Rooms
Floor	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Closet and door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Heat source	Smoke detector

8. Bathrooms
Functional flow	Floors
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Doors
Lighting	Ceiling fan
All outlets and switches	Exhaust fan
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drains	Vanity, cabinets, and countertops
Pantry	Toilet
Tub and enclosure	Jetted tub and enclosure
Heat source

9. Floors/Hallways/Stairways/Loft
Floors	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Lighting	Ceiling fan
Attic fan	All outlets and switches
Closets and doors	Stairs and railings
Front door	Patio door
Smoke detectors	Heat source

10. Kitchen
Functional flow	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Door
Patio door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Cabinets and countertops
Pantry	Garbage disposal
Dishwasher	Stove/oven/cooktop
Range hood	Microwave
Refrigerator	Trash compactor
Heat source

11. Fireplaces and wood stoves
Fireplace or wood stove?	Front/mantle/hearth
Door/screen	Firebox
Damper control	Chimney and flue
Electric start function	Blower and fan
Gas valve

12. Garage
Roof	Exterior foundation
Exterior siding	Garage doors
Garage door openers	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Lighting
All outlets	Circuit wiring
Patio doors	Access door
Central heating	Central cooling
Space heating	Sink

13. Basement
Stairs and railing	Floor
Foundation and walls	Ceiling/sub-floor
Rim/floor joists	Columns, beams, and posts
Vents or windows	Walkout doors
Doors	Lighting
Ceiling fans	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Circuit wiring
Insulation	Heat source
Smoke detector

14. Laundry
Floor	Walls
Ceiling	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Lighting	All outlets and switches
Tub/faucet	Trap/drain
Washer/dryer	Heat source
Smoke detector

15. Central heating
Energy source	Heating equipment
Operating controls	Safety controls
Chimneys, flues, and vents	Heat distribution system
Heat source in each living space	Smoke/CO detector in space
Furnace enclosure

16. Plumbing
Water main supply	Water main shutoff valve
Hose bibs	Distribution piping
Interior drains, waste, and vents	Fuel distribution system
Water heater	Sump pumps

17. Electrical
Service entrance	Distribution panel
Sub-panel	Grounding
Circuit wiring

18. Fire safety

19. Appliances (that stay with home)

You should be present and actively involved in what will surely become an on-site education on the finer points of your new home.

At its best, your inspection will see you actively participate and involved in what will become an on-site educational course on the finer points of your home.

This is an important question because it makes sure you understand the limitations of a home inspection and will not be disappointed later.

In fact, a few things are excluded from a home inspection, and some might not get inspected or tested because the inspector cannot access them.

These are the most common items that are normally excluded from a home inspection:

1. A home’s market value
2. A home’s property lines
3. Cosmetic items
4. Wear-and-tear items (carpet, holes in walls, scratches, paint, knobs, etc.)
5. Swimming pools
6. Hot tubs
7. Sprinkler systems
8. Telephone lines
9. Fences
10. Cable lines
11. Surround sound systems
12. Sewer lines
13. Insulation in walls
14. R-value of windows
15. Proper sizing of central heating unit
16. Proper sizing of central cooling unit
17. Proper sizing of water heater
18. Cost estimates for repairs

A specialized inspector can still inspect some of these items for an additional fee, but they all fall outside a normal home inspection.  

This is a list of areas you’ll want to make sure are open, unlocked, unblocked, and accessible BEFORE the inspection starts:

1. Crawlspace
2. Main electrical panels
3. Furnace panels
4. A/C condensers
5. Water heaters
6. Attic access panels
7. Detached garages
8. Closets
9. Roof

Most home inspectors will not move heavy personal items that are blocking their way because sellers can be pretty sensitive about their belongings.  

That’s why clutter, shelves, and storage items should be moved before the inspection starts.

For a complete list, here is the professional home inspector’s Standards of Practice.

Knowing this ahead of time can help you help the home inspector give you the best inspection possible.

For a lot of good reasons.

First, you need to know what kind of condition your home is in (it’s the things we can’t see that scare us). This is especially true if the home has been vacant for any period of time.

Second, it would be outrageously expensive to call out a licensed professional to evaluate the condition of every single system and component in a home. For example, let’s say we have the hourly rates of certified professionals:

• Electrician = $95/hour
• HVAC technician = $85/hour
• Roofer = $85/hour
• Foundation specialist = $80/hour
• Plumber = $95/hour
• A good handyman for everything else = $100/hour

This way, a 2-hour inspection of every component in a home would easily cost over $890 for the standard-sized home (approx. 1,500 ft²) and would also be a nightmare coordinating all of them to show up and then deliver their findings during your inspection period.

Third, you may run into “Rush Charges” of 20% or more by these technicians because these professionals have to squeeze you into their busy schedule during your short inspection period.

Fourth, these technicians don’t provide professional inspection reports for their findings, which your lender requires.

Fifth, though these are technical professionals, trained in their field to troubleshoot and repair.  They are not trained to evaluate and troubleshoot a whole home.

Lastly, because no house is perfect.

There is always something to be found in every home, which might lead to problems later.

No. A house cannot fail a home inspection.

This is a common misconception. A home can only fail a city code inspection (if your area has building codes) when your home was first built or when any changes are made to the home that require a building permit to be issued to the licensed contractor that is doing the work. This ensures the work is done correctly by licensed professionals.

On the contrary, a professional home inspection is for your benefit. You can use the information to negotiate repairs with the seller, budget for repairs, or you can ignore it all and chuck the report in the trash. It’s all up to you.

These are non-profit governing bodies for the home inspection industry that decided long ago how inspectors should behave.

It includes a code of ethics, continuing education requirements, and the minimum number of items that must inspected in every home (about 430+ items).

So, just like building codes that dictate bare minimum requirements to build a safe house, InterNACHI^® and ASHI^™ dictate bare minimum requirements that a home inspector must abide by in order to be considered professional.

Also, since both organizations essentially perform the same function, a home inspector does not need to belong to more than one (although some states don’t even require a home inspector to belong to either).

So what does this mean to you as a home buyer?

You can find comfort in knowing you can expect a minimum level of consistency regardless of who you choose to work with. But with thousands of items that can break and leak in and around a home, you’ll always want more than that.

Here’s what ASHI^™ and InterNACHI^® are not:

1. They aren’t an insurance company to protect you if a home inspector misses something.

2. They aren’t a group that could punish a home inspector or kick them out of the home inspection industry for acting unethically or unprofessionally (there are exceptions that involve revoking their license, but this is not common).

Not at all.

That’s alot like saying all auto mechanics, hairdressers, and attorneys are all the same.

And just like those professions, it takes years to master the craft. So less experienced operators won’t have the same well of knowledge, experience, and efficiency as someone with 20 years and tens of thousands of inspections behind them.

This keeps them from seeing the bigger picture so their interpretations of outcomes may be different than someone who has seen a particular defect and its various causes hundreds of times before.

This is also why home inspections vary in price.

Most Inspections take between 2 to 3 hours.

The things that affect the time will be inspector experience along with size, age, and condition. A good inspector will invite you to attend, but will not allow themselves to be distracted by conversation. You should follow them and observe if you want, but they’re there with a single purpose – to make sure you know what you’re buying and have no unwelcome surprises after you move in.

Conversations can happen in the beginning and the end, but in the middle you should let them earn their fee.

No. And for 2 reasons:

1st – Their knowledge is specific and specialized. If you hire the right home inspector, you’re hiring an experienced professional who knows a house inside and out. They’ll not only study the mechanical and structural systems, but also to check to make sure they’re working together and identify areas that need to be monitored, repaired, or replaced.

Think of a home inspector as your family doctor. A person doesn’t go straight to a brain surgeon when they have a headache; it’s just too expensive and too specialized. You visit your family doctor who will diagnose the problem and then, if necessary, send you to the specialist. That’s how the professional engineer and all other specialists (HVAC, foundation, electrician, roofing, plumbing, etc.) fit into the scope of the inspection process. Occasionally, a home inspector may identify the need for a more detailed analysis of one or more of the home’s systems or structures and in these cases, the appropriate professional will be recommended.

2nd – You need someone to professionally and objectively communicate their findings. The importance of this skill cannot be overemphasized. This is what really distinguishes the abilities of a professional home inspector from a professional engineer. As a basic necessity, a home inspector is continually educated and experienced in not only verbal communication, but in written communication. By trade, a professional engineer doesn’t have the need to be careful with the wording of their findings while a professional home inspector fully understands their role in the sales process and is equipped with both the communication skills and home inspection reporting tools to deliver a timely, thorough, careful, and appropriate ‘big picture’ analysis of the home.

As a matter of fact, hiring a professional engineer on your own can be a disappointing experience. In many states a licensed engineer can perform a home inspection without being certified. The term ‘professional engineer’ or ‘PE’ does not mean the individual has training or experience conducting home inspections. Therefore, hiring a professional engineer to complete a home inspection will likely cost you more money and not deliver the results you are looking for (or deserve).

No.

No home inspection company will ever be able to predict or anticipate every repair or maintenance item encountered while owning a home.

The purchase and ownership of any home brings ongoing maintenance and a certain amount of risk and unfortunately things sometimes go wrong after the inspection. It can’t be avoided or predicted. Annually, you can expect to spend about 1% of your home’s value on maintenance, but that formula along with the home inspection report is the closest any home inspector can come to predicting future costs and repairs.

Also, a home inspection does not represent an insurance policy. All it signifies is the material condition of your home during the time of the inspection. For detailed information on a home warranty, contact your closest real estate professional.

As a matter of fact, I do.

I have some super cool resources designed to help you every step of the way…and beyond. These useful checklists help buyers and sellers through the home-buying process.

1. The Ultimate House Hunting Checklist—From the neighborhood to the home, navigate your house hunting by comparing each home using 23 important criteria that help you remember what matters most. It’s free to use.

2. The 30-Min. DIY Home Inspection Checklist – Put my experience in your hands as you walk through each home and I show you how to check the 5 major areas in every home in about 30 min.

This will not replace a home inspection, but it will reduce the chance that you’ll call a home inspector over major defects you could’ve found yourself.

You’ll find it for sale on our website for $18.99.

3. Home Maintenance Schedules—You just had it inspected; now keep it protected. These maintenance schedules provide you with ongoing and seasonal maintenance items to ensure your home stays in tip-top shape for as long as you own it. Free – just click the link.

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

4. Building Material Life Span Guide—This Guide is free with every home inspection. It helps you understand how much life is left on your roof, water heater, furnace, and more than 300 other items. It’s a valuable resource as your home grows and ages. And it’s only available here.

5. Home Remodeling Cost Estimates Guide—This is also free with every home inspection. It is a helpful tool to help you prepare for the cost of repair or upgrades on over 500 items. Use it to help you figure out the cost of upgrading the countertops or finishing your basement. And it’s only available here.

Payment for home inspections is almost always due at the end of the inspection.

Your inspector should accept personal checks, cash, money orders, cashier’s checks, and credit cards.

If you are unable to attend the inspection, you will likely be expected to pay through credit card or e-check, mail the check at the time of scheduling, or have your representative or agent provide payment at the time of the inspection.

Also, a paid invoice should be included with your home inspection report, and the report will probably NOT be released until payment is made unless arrangements have been made in advance.

This is discouraged in the industry.

Because there are so many things that can go wrong between the inspection and closing. So if you ask for payment to be made at closing and don’t buy the home, they’ll have little recourse to collect for services on a home you don’t own.

So if it’s unavoidable and there is no other option then a credit card number is usually given or a check is written to the inspector at the time of inspection with the understanding that if no closing occurs the credit card will be run or the check will be deposited.

Between $300-$2000.

But it depends on the inspection company and several other variables:

1. The square footage
2. The age
3. The sale price
4. Crawlspace
5. Weekend or evening
6. Or an hourly rate

Then there are other inspections:

1. Termite inspection
2. Radon test
3. Sewer scope inspection
4. Mold testing
5. Structural

One may use square footage, while another uses both square footage and age to determine their price. One may charge if the home has a crawlspace and another may not. And another may charge for a weekend inspection and another might charge a flat rate of $100 per hour with a 3 hour minimum.

As you can see, it depends. And every inspector has their own reasons for doing it the way they do.

But you’re really paying for the inspector’s experience, efficiency, and results, so the greater the certainty and clarity, the higher the price.

That said, don’t choose a cheap inspector. The insight and cost savings you get from a good home inspection are very real and will always save you money, time, and headaches later.

Need? No. Highly encouraged? Definitely.

It’s always a great idea to be there, but it’s not critical. You can always discuss findings over the phone and your inspector will always be available for any questions later.

If you can’t be there for the whole thing, try to make it at the end. That’s the most important time because your inspector will go over the findings and have the answers to your questions. This should only take about 15 minutes.

The same day.

This isn’t true for all home inspectors and sometimes unexpected surprises get in the way with us, but it’s a promise we keep 99.9% of the time.

It will be emailed to you.

On rare occasion, an inspector will hand write their report, but 99% deliver them electronically either as a pdf attachment or HTML report.

Don’t have an email? You can for the inspection or give us the email of someone you trust. If that’s not an option, your real estate agent can print it out for you. As a last resort, your inspector can print it out for you.

For a pre-owned home you should schedule your home inspection as soon as your offer is accepted.

You usually have between seven and fourteen days after your sales contract is signed to get a home inspection. The sooner you can get the home inspected, the more time you’ll have to deal with any unexpected issues that come up afterward.

If you’re buying a new construction home, you should schedule your home inspection after all the work is complete but BEFORE your builder walkthrough. This lets you have the report while you’re walking through the home with the builder.

Yes.

But keep in mind that distractions diminish the quality of your home inspection.

So feel free to follow your inspector, but avoid having conversations that will keep him from doing his work.

In fact, try to keep all conversations out of his earshot so he can concentrate.

It’s best to limit conversations to the beginning and end of the home inspection.

Yes.

But remember that the sole purpose of a home inspection is to find defects in your new home.

It’s not a time to grill your inspector about maintenance and repairs or issues you are having in your current home. He’s trying to stay focused to connect the dots and uncover the hidden story the home has to tell. Distracting them is counterproductive.

You’re spending several hundred (sometimes thousands) of dollars for a professional to do one thing. Let them do it.

If you have pressing questions, ask them before the inspection or write them down and ask them at the end. That’s when they’ll have the answers.

No. Not if you take your home seriously.

And the answer is obvious. They don’t know what they’re doing. This is probably the 2nd biggest mistake many people make when buying a home (the 1st is not getting a home inspection in the first place).

Even if the person is in the trades, they’re don’t have the same critical eye and training as someone conditioned to uncover visible – and invisible – defects in and around a home (also see Q8 “Am I missing out on any expertise by not using a professional engineer?”).

In fact, we get what’s called an “inspector’s instinct” for problems. That instinct takes extensive training and experience to develop. That’s why many contractors and other trades professionals hire a professional home inspector to inspect their own homes when they make a purchase.n

If they trust us, you should, too.

Always, if it’s safe.

But did you know home inspectors are not required to walk on a roof?

That said, I’ve found it impossible to give a proper inspection without walking on a roof (hail damage is sometimes impossible to see from even 10 feet away), so I will always get up there (sometimes to my own detriment).

If I can’t, then I’ll try to get to the roof’s edge and take the best look I can.

When will I NOT walk on a roof?

When it’s clearly unsafe, or the shingles are too fragile:

1. Wood shingles
2. Tile or slate shingles
3. When the roof is too steep
4. When the roof has a steep slope and it’s raining
5. After the rain has stopped, but the roof is still wet
6. It’s covered in snow
7. It’s covered in ice
8. It’s covered in moss (this stuff is slick!)
9. There’s a serious obstruction like a tree or power line blocking the way.

These conditions are not common, but they do happen, and it’s important to understand the limitations so you don’t have disappointment or unmet expectations later.

So now you may be thinking, “Will the inspector come back later to re-inspect the roof?”

The answer to that question is in Q47.

Great question.

I always try to walk a roof, even in ice and snow. And even though a home inspector is not required to walk on the roof, it’s the best way to determine its true condition.

But, you have a few options:

1. If you have time in your inspection period, I’d wait. The best time to inspect a home is the day after it rains. This lets me see if the foundation leaks after the water has time to soak into the ground and put both moisture and pressure against the foundation wall.

2. If time doesn’t allow or your schedule keeps you from attending another day, we should move forward with the inspection. If I can walk it, I will. If not, I can still get up to the roof edge and get inside the attic to get a complete picture of the roof structure.

3. I can come back another day to inspect the roof, but there is an additional fee.

No.

When the outside air temperature has been less than 60 degrees within 24 hours of the inspection the air conditioning system cannot be tested.

This is not just a limitation to a home inspection. Most HVAC technicians will not test a/c systems when it’s cold outside, either.

The reason? To put it plainly the refrigerant that runs through the a/c system can harden. If the system is operated after this happens, it could cause damage.

This is why many home warranty companies recognize include a cold weather clause in their contract.

This protects you when you buy a home in cold weather in case the a/c system does not work when you try to use it in the spring.

To be honest, this question is too big for this guide, but we cover it in our blog post, Kansas City foundation types—The Complete Breakdown.

Many types of cracks appear not only in the foundation but also in the walls, ceilings, and floors.

But I’ll touch on the types of cracks that give my clients the biggest scares.

Most of the time, they worry about foundation cracks.

There are 3 different types of foundation cracks:

1. Shrinkage cracks—These are hairline cracks that occur due to the normal drying and shrinkage of the concrete.

In fact, there are 2 promises they make in the concrete business:

1) It will get hard

2) It will crack.

90% of the time, these hairline cracks are harmless. They will be random and can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal.

2. Settlement cracks—These are caused by movement in the soil around your home. They can be major concerns, particularly if they go all the way through the foundation or are greater than ¼”.

These are almost always vertical or diagonal and will start at the floor and move upward.

3. Hydrostatic (Horizontal) Cracks—When people talk about bad foundation cracks, this is it. These are caused when the soil pushes the foundation wall inward and often require a support system to keep the cracking from getting worse.

Home inspectors are trained to evaluate and report on all types of cracks. If you have any questions about the type of crack you have or how serious it is, never hesitate to ask your inspector.

It depends on the type of shingle and where it is.

This question is answered in depth in our blog post on KC area roof types and in our Building Materials Lifespan Guide, which you can get for free after a home inspection.

This was the standard method of wiring homes in North America between 1875 and 1930.

It consists of copper wires run through ceramic knobs and tubes and uses air to dissipate heat. This is why early homes were built without insulation in the walls or attic.

While not inherently unsafe, having knob-n-tube wiring in your home does present some safety issues, most of which come from the system becoming brittle with age, improper splicing into modern wires, and covering with insulation in attics and walls.

You also can’t safely use 3-prong outlets with knob-n-tube wiring. Here’s a graphic to show you what it looks like:

Today, many homeowner insurance companies have issues with these homes, so I always tell my clients to contact their insurance company to ensure coverage is available and reasonable.

Learn more about your home’s electrical service in our blog post.

No.

We don’t know if it’s off for a reason so it’s not safe to just start turning on gas valves to appliances even if we’ve been given permission (alot of times the person giving permission is not the same person who turned it off and does not really know why it was turned off or why it’s still turned off). This should be done before the inspection starts.

Only by flipping the switch to an electric start gas fireplace.

Lighting a fire will only impede the inspection process and prevent a home inspector from inspecting your fireplace and chimney.

As a side note, you should also remember that a home inspection is visual in nature and the inspector will only be able to take a look up the chimney with their flashlight.

Therefore, if you have any particular reason for concern, it’s always a good idea to call a professional chimney sweep to do an in-depth evaluation, which usually includes sending a light and camera up the chimney.

Contact your inspector and discuss all aspects of your home whenever you like.

Our service is a long-term investment for as long as you own the home.

Not necessarily.

Good real estate agents live and breathe in the world of real estate. They’ve been around for years and there’s a reason for it…they surround themselves professionals they can trust – including their home inspectors.

They are constantly bombarded with the advertisements from home inspection companies and other vendors; but with the help of other seasoned agents and their broker, they weed out the good ones from the bad.

Again, I’m talking about real estate agents who operate with high integrity. Someone who works off referral business and wins over their clients with service, experience, and knowledge. A good agent is one whose response to a home that has many things found wrong after the home inspection is:

“Good thing we got it inspected, now let’s go find that dream home.”

Am I also suggesting that if an agent only uses one inspector, that you should use them? Maybe.

That agent may be surrounding themselves with a “team” so that they can deliver a quality and consistent experience for their client. In order to do that everyone on their “team” plays a vital role.

Be just as selective about your home inspector as you were the agent you chose to work with and the home you decided to buy because you’re signing up with their team, too. Be picky, interview a few, and choose the best fit for you.

Yes.

Click here to view and download FHA requirements.

Yes.

Click here to view and download the checklist of VA requirements.

There are only a few core inspections but several special inspections.

For example, I offer 5 types of home inspections:

1. Whole-house inspection
2. Major-items inspection
3. Radon testing
4. Termite inspection
5. Sewer scope inspection

These 5 cover most needs.

But, there are some very particular inspections that are not so common:

1. Asbestos testing
2. Lead-based paint
3. Carbon Monoxide
4. Septic System Inspections
5. Well water inspections
6. New construction phase inspections
7. Stucco/EIFS inspections
8. Infrared testing
9. Swimming pool
10. Mold testing
11. Fireplace chimney

Yes.

Feel free to use this time to get as much done as possible. If you need to schedule the appraisal, the carpet guys, the painter, the granite guy, the decorator, and give your in-laws a tour, go right ahead (just remember Q19).

The only time that might not be a good idea is if a Radon test is being conducted. According to EPA Radon protocol, closed-house conditions much be kept the entire time the electronic monitor is in place. This means all windows and exterior doors must be kept closed (except for occasional use while coming and going).

Yes.

You’re paying for a single visit to the home. That’s why everything should be turn on, unlocked, unblocked, and lit before the inspection starts. There’s an opportunity cost when you take a spot reserved for a full inspection, that’s why there’s a fee.

No.

You can order a stake survey for about $450 that will tell you exactly where your property line is so you can determine if there are any encroachments or easements on your property.

No.

A home inspector can only tell you what kind of condition the home is in. The appraiser will tell you how many square feet your property is (along with its tax value).

Not usually.

Weekends are for family and I don’t work unless the situation is important. Newer and less experienced will often work weekends to get more experience, though.

At the time of this writing, there is no state licensing for home inspectors in either Kansas or Missouri.

At the time of this writing, home inspectors in neither Kansas nor Missouri must carry errors and omissions insurance.

Contact your home inspector.

There may come a time when you find something wrong with your house after you move in that makes you upset or disappointed with your home inspection.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

Intermittent or Concealed Problems: Some problems can only be discovered by living in a house. They can’t be discovered during the course of a few hours, even with a home inspection. Sometimes problems are hidden inside walls, under floors, and above ceilings. Some roofs and basements only leak under certain conditions. And some problems are hidden beneath carpet or behind furniture and storage items.

No Clues: These problems may have existed at the time of the inspection, but there were no clues as to their existence.

Home inspections are based on the past performance of the house. If there are no clues of a past problem, it’s not fair to think we should be able to predict a problem in the future.

Minor Things: Some say home inspectors are inconsistent because no two reports are the same. This is true. Sometimes small things get overlooked because they’re small, but the major defects should be found no matter what.

Contractor’s Advice: A common source of disappointment and bad advice comes from subcontractors. Contractor opinions often have nothing to do with home inspection guidelines. Don’t be surprised when three roofers all say the roof has a few more good years left after we say it needs to be replaced, and vice versa.

Last-Man-In Theory: While we often give the most prudent advice, alot of contractors avoid doing the work. This is because of the last-man-in theory.

This theory states that the last man to touch something gets the blame if something goes wrong later.

For example, if he’s the last person to work on the roof, he gets blamed if the roof leaks, regardless of the actual cause. So, instead of conceding to a small repair with greater liability, he pushes for the whole roof to be replaced for more money and a lower likelihood of callback.

Most Recent Advice Is Best: The last-man-in theory has more to it. It also suggests that homeowners tend to believe the last piece of expert advice they get, even if it contradicts previous advice.

As home inspectors, we’re often the first-man-in so our advice ultimately gets dismissed later.

Why Didn’t We See It? Last-man-in contractors have the luxury of saying, “I can’t believe you had this house inspected and the inspector didn’t find this problem.” There are several reasons for this:

Most don’t understand a home inspection and make claims that upset homebuyers based on opinion, instead of fact.

Conditions during The Inspection: It can be difficult to remember the conditions inside the house during the inspection. It’s easy to forget if it was snowing, the basement was packed with boxes, if the air conditioner was tested, etc. This means it’s impossible for 3rd party contractors to know what the circumstances were when the inspection was performed.

The Wisdom of Hindsight: When a problem manifests, it’s easy to use 20/20 hindsight. Anyone can say the basement gets wet when there is 2 feet of water on the floor. Predicting the problem is a different story.

A Longer Look: If we spent 30-minutes under the kitchen sink or 45 minutes disassembling the furnace, we’d find more problems. But, the inspection would take several days and cost thousands more.

The Family Doctor: We’re generalists, not specialists. And just like the difference between your family doctor and an oncologist, we must know as much as we can about every system in your home, but not everything about one.

For example, the heating contractor will have more heating expertise than we do. That’s because we have heating, plumbing, structural, electrical, etc. expertise.

An Invasive Look: Problems often become apparent when carpets or plaster are removed, fixtures or cabinets are pulled out, and so on. A home inspection is a visual examination. We don’t perform invasive or destructive tests.

Not Insurance: A professional home inspection protects you from buying a money pit, but it doesn’t mitigate all risk. That’s why a home inspection should NOT be considered an insurance policy. The premium you’d have to pay for a policy with no deductible, no limit and an indefinite policy period would be considerably more than the fee we charge.

This is a lot to take in and this discussion is not meant to make excuses for any items that are blatantly missed. In those cases, the inspector is responsible should take responsibility for the oversight.

However, inspectors are not psychic, cannot see through walls, and cannot predict problems in the future.

This means you owe it to yourself to understand the limitations of the inspection process before you order one.

Because quality is different. In fact, 60% of home inspectors drop out within 12 months so if you work with someone brand new, chances are they won’t be around this time next year.

The price includes their time, effort, training, experience, creativity, curiosity, commitment, intuition, efficiency, skill, and ability.

You get what you pay for.

From 1 month to 1 year.

A home is under constant stress both inside and out so things can change quickly. If you’re looking at a home that had an inspection performed more than a month ago – especially if it’s vacant – it’s still a good idea to get one for yourself.n

But, if you already live in the home and wanna use your inspection report to create a list of repairs, that’s what it’s for.

Not at all.

Homes break down and deteriorate. If there are potential hidden problems, they need to be inspected.

For example, a home seller can inspect their home before they put it on the market.

Real estate investors can inspect the homes they buy so they know their condition and can budget for repairs.

Apartment complexes and commercial properties need to be inspected, as well.

Yes. I’ve never encountered a professional home inspector who wasn’t.

To become certified, a professional home inspector must train and pass a series of exams that cover topics ranging from ethics to foundations to equipment.

This is why it’s a bad idea to use a friend or family member.

So if someone only performs commercial inspections, don’t use them. Commercial inspections are very different from a residential inspection.

Yes. $295.

Repairs should be performed by qualified professionals who provide a scope of work, contact information, proof of payment, and (hopefully) a warranty. And get all of this in your possession before closing.

So it shouldn’t be necessary for a generalist to come back and check the work of a specialist.

But, if you decide you still want a re-inspection, expect to pay $50 – $195. A little steep, but that’s the price you pay for taking a calendar slot normally reserved for a full inspection.

No.

And neither should any certified home inspector who charges for their service. That’s a conflict of interest and an ethics violation.

For as long as you own your home.

A home inspector should be available to answer any questions you have about your home for as long as you live there.

Understand the difference between Major, Maintenance, and Safety Items.

Most inspectors will summarize the inspection findings based on how important they are, such as:

1. Safety items
2. Major items
3. Maintenance items.

This lets you skip the maintenance items and go straight to the problems considered to be signifcant defects and safety issues.

If you’re negotiating with a seller, safety and major items are normally considered important issues, while maintenance items might get put on the ‘honey do’ list after you move in.

Yes.

It’s called the Homebuyer’s DIY 30-min. Home Inspection Checklist.

This checklist gets straight to the point and shows you not only what to look at, but also what to look for so you’re not wasting money inspecting a home that might scare you into changing your mind after it’s over. Now you’ll know BEFORE the inspection.

But let me be very clear: This basic checklist is NEITHER intended to—nor capable of—replacing an honest-to-goodness professional home inspection.

It’s only meant to help you recognize a few of the biggest and most common problems I find in the major areas that tend to change people’s minds so you’ll know ahead of time if you’ll be biting off more than you can chew.

Yes. Absolutely.

In fact, this is how I think homes should be bought and sold.

Here are some obvious benefits:

1. You find out what kind of condition your home is in before your buyers do.n

2. Once the inspection results come back, you get to make repairs on your schedule using the contractors you choose.

3. You can now list any items you’re not willing to repair as non-negotiable in your seller’s disclosure.

4. You can choose to raise your selling price because you know nothing major will show up during the buyer’s inspection.

5. You can use your home inspection report as a marketing tool and show it to your prospective buyers (this can even convince buyers to skip their own inspection).

There are other really good reasons, too. In fact, check out an article I wrote a few years ago on the subject. I think it may be eye-opening:

Pre-Listing Inspections: A Sure Sell?

The seller inspection is slightly more thorough.

That’s because your report will be compared to your buyer’s inspection report after you accept their offer and you don’t want any major differences when that happens.

Congratulations. You accepted an offer and you’re about to get hit with the home inspection.

Don’t fret.

There are several things you can do to smooth out your upcoming inspection.

Outside the home:

1. Remove any storage, debris, and wood that is making contact with the ground. These may be noted as termite conditions.

2. Trim back tree limbs 10’ from the roof and trim shrubs 1’ from the house to allow access.

Inside the home:

3. Confirm that water, electric, and gas service is on and all pilots are lit (if vacant).

4. Lock up pets or take them with you when you leave.

5. Replace burned-out bulbs.

6. Test smoke detectors and replace dead batteries.

7. Install a Carbon Monoxide detector (if applicable) on each floor.

8. Clean or replace dirty furnace filters. Make sure they fit securely.

9. Remove anything blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics, and crawl spaces.

10. Unlock areas the inspector needs to get into – attic doors, electric service panels, closets, fence gates, garages, sheds, and crawl spaces.

11. Repair broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; deck spindles, gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Here’s a 4-page home seller guide with all these and more.

Absolutely.

No home is perfect, and even if you trust your builder, they’re not the one hammering the nails and slapping on shingles…it’s the sub-contractors he hires.

The builder will probably not be aware of the problems that will be found, but they will be happy to fix them.

Common problems found are:

1. leaking pipes
2. bad wiring
3. poor shingle installation
4. furnace problems
5. air conditioner problems

That’s just a start…last year I went into 2 BRAND NEW homes that had NO insulation in the attic.

Always get a new home inspected. The cost and headache of dealing with messy problems later are more than worth the investment in ensuring that doesn’t happen to you.

Before your final walkthrough with the builder.

Order the inspection too soon and not only do you risk having things like sinks not be installed, but the inspector will be marking items they just haven’t instaled, yet.

Too late and you miss your chance to fix issues before closing.

The sweet spot is AFTER the work is completed (and everyone is out), but BEFORE the final walkthrough.n

That short window lets you share defects with the builder before closing so they can get fixed before you move in.

Maybe.

Brand new homes are covered by a 12-month new construction warranty. The scope of these warranties diminish over time, but during the first 12-months they cover nearly every item in the home.

If the home is only 6 months old, I’d tell your friends to compile a list and give it straight to the builder.

The builder will coordinate with the sub-contractor who’s responsible and arrange a visit to fix the problems.

But try to be home during that time.

Some builders will say it’s not necessary, but it protects you:

1. You can verify the sub-contractor actually showed up and when

2. You can make sure nothing else gets damaged in the process.

3. You can make sure the work gets done right

I once had broken floor tiles in my bathroom. I wasn’t home to open the door when the sub-contractor came so he left the materials on my front porch and left.

Don’t let this happen to you.

Yes.

Here’s why:

1. You’ve been living there almost a year and might overlook things.

2. You have one chance to capture all the cracks, dings, and shifting so use an objective professional and do it right the first time.

3. There’s often problems you can’t see or haven’t found that the inspector will ensure make their way onto your repair list

First, keep your cool.

I know this is frustrating, but you’re negotiating with the person responsible for building and (hopefully) repairing whatever breakdown or damage your home is experiencing. You want to diffuse the situation. Many times, builders are just really busy.

Others are resistant and hope your problem will go away.

Either way, you want the swiftest resolution possible.

First, find your home warranty paperwork. You may recognize one of these popular programs:

1. 2-10 Home Warranty
2. Quality Builder’s Warranty
3. RWC

Next, look up your problem and see if it’s covered under the warranty. If it is, support your claim by knowing exactly where to find it.

Call the warranty company and explain the situation. Work with them; they will contact the builder and help you escalate the issue.

Join our newsletter.

It will give you monthly maintenance and repair tips along with unique recommendations based on your particular home.

For basic seasonal tips, click one of the links below:

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

Our customers also get the Home Maintenance and Repair book for dummies.

Yes.

it’s called a Home Maintenance Checkup and it’s an inspection designed for fair weather because there’s too many things that can’t be tested or inspected when it’s cold.

It’s also extremely underutilized. Mainly because most homeowners and real estate agents don’t know about it. But it’s a great tool to help your home stay in tip top shape.

It’s designed to tell you (among other things):

• How much insulation you have in the attic (and how much you should have)
• How your windows are performing
• How your furnace is performing
• How your a/c system is performing
• If your smoke detectors are working properly
• If you have any peeling paint or rot on the outside of your home
• If your gutters are clogged
• If your shingles are worn or damaged
• If your light bulbs are working
• A free copy of the Home Maintenance book for Dummies

This question comes up fairly often.

Here’s 4 things to think about:

1) If it’s new to you and 50+ years old, wait at least 12 months after moving in.

This lets you see how it does through all 4 seasons so you know what to expect before covering up your foundation walls.

2) Take pictures of your foundation walls.

These before pictures let you prove you aren’t trying to hide anything behind the drywall when you sell the home.

3) Slope the dirt away from your foundation and extend any short downspouts at least 6 feet away.

This reduces the chances of future moisture penetration by about 90%.

4) As an extra precaution, add a sump pump with a battery back-up system.

This will remove water from under the foundation and keep it out of your basement, even if you lose power.

Yes.

It’s called a 5-point Major-Items inspection and it covers the capex items of a residential home or side-to-side duplex.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long and includes an online digital report with photos and is delivered the same day.

But ensure all the utilities are on and the pilots lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the the main valve must be open and water flowing through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

Finally, this inspection falls outside professional inspection standards so you won’t find this offered by most home inspectors.

As an investor who operates in dollars and cents, a roof gets replaced only when it must.

But, here are the things to consider:

1) Strength of the roof structure.

Can the rafters bear the weight of another layer of shingles? Is the roof structure made with 2×4 or 2×6 rafters? If it’s 2×4’s, are there strongbacks installed or wood trusses?

Prepare ahead of time so you’re not dealing with damage, money, and headaches later.

2) Condition of the bottom layer of shingles.

If the first layer of shingles is REALLY worn out, you won’t want to put another layer of shingles on top. It’ll accelerate the wear and tear so just tear them off.

3) Type of shingle material on the bottom layer.

If the first layer is wood shingle, you won’t want to put an asphalt shingle on top. If you ever sell the home, this may become a problem with your buyer’s homeowner’s insurance company.

4) Number of layers already installed.

Depending on the area of the home, you may not be able to add a second layer (a few allow up to 3 layers). Again, make sure your repairs and upgrades don’t become a bottleneck in the future sale of the home.

Radon gas is a naturally occurring radioactive gas created from the depletion of Uranium in our soil.

Radon levels in the soil outside your home range from a few hundred to several thousand pCi/L (picocuries per liter).

It is the leading cause of non-smoking lung cancer in the country. And because it causes lung cancer, the EPA established that every pCi/L of Radon gas in your home has the same cancer causing effects as smoking 1 cigarette per day.

The EPA decided that 4 pCi/L as the highest acceptable level in a home and I’ve seen levels up to 105.3.

So if the radon level in the home is 10 pCi/L, it’s like you’re smoking 10 cigarettes a day. Every single day. 7 days a week.

That means you could have the healthiest lifestyle in the world and still get sick if you’re living with high Radon.

And if you smoke, your risk is even greater.

Yes, if your home sits on the ground and you live in an area that has Radon gas.

For 2 reasons:

1) You believe it’s a health concern.

You can see we have historically high levels all over the Kansas City area (both Kansas and Missouri).

2) You believe it’s a financial concern.

It’s cheaper to test than to mitigate. So if you decide NOT to test for Radon gas when you buy your home, you’ll be crossing your fingers and hoping your buyers don’t test when you sell – or it comes back low.

Radon gas is measured in pCi/L (picocurie per liter).

Named after Marie Curie who got so close to her work she had to be buried in a coffin lined with lead.

If your Radon level comes back above 4.0 pCi/L, then the EPA protocol is to have a Radon mitigation system professionally installed. nThe system is a permanent solution to the problem and will continuously keep Radon levels within a safe range.

A mitigation system is commonly corrected using a method called “sub-slab depressurization” or “sub-slab suction”.

It works by drilling a 6″ hole in the foundation floor (aka suction point) then inserting A PVC pipe into the hole.

A suction fan is attached and the pipe is extended outside the home.

The fan then draws the radon gas from beneath the home and vents it to the atmosphere.n

A radon mitigation system can cost between $695 – $2500 and the fan lasts roughly 10 years of continuous, 24- hour use.

Sub-slab suction systems are virtually maintenance free.

Simply check the manometer (tube with red liquid) periodically. The liquid level should NOT be level with each other.

No.

You can’t see it, smell it, or taste it.

In fact, your next door neighbor can have high levels and your home can be low and vice versa.

Radon gas is a Class A Carcinogen and has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States.

Second only to cigarette smoking, and it is said to be responsible for an estimated 20,000 deaths annually.

Yes.

The age of a home is not a predictive Radon factor. Newer homes may still have high levels (and in fact, may have higher levels) since older homes are draftier and today’s new construction homes are built tighter than in the past.

This makes it less likely the gas will escape through cracks and drafts in the home.

Yes.

Since Radon comes from our soil, it breaches the home through your crawlspace floor drain, sump pit, foundation cracks, sinks, showers, and all other building envelope penetrations. n

The amount of radon that escapes from the soil and enters the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and suction within the house.

Yes. For the same reasons listed above.

If it’s sitting on the ground, radon gas enters the home.

Because the gas has infinite room to dissipate.

In other words, there’s too much room outside to get sick.

No.

The levels of Radon gas is limited to the ground the home is sitting on and varies from area to area.

As a matter of fact, I remember a story of 2 homes next door to each other being tested for Radon at the same time. One home came back 2.2 pCi/L and the other came back at 22 pCi/L.

Somewhere between $20 and $125.

The $20 test is a DIY at-home version consisting of two charcoal canisters, which you hang side-by-side from the ceiling of the lowest livable space in your home and leave for one year.

Then, you send it to the lab, and they will email you the results.

$125 is for an electronic 48-hour radon test for real estate transactions. They’re equipped with internal sensors that prevent tampering by measuring conditions like:

1. Temperature
2. Humidity
3. Barometric Pressure
4. Tilt

If the monitor is tampered with, the results become null and void, and the area must be re-tested.

You can learn about Radon gas at the EPA Radon website or on our website.

Not if the exterior doors will be propped open for long periods of time.

If the radon monitor is dropped off during the inspection and they start moving out the next day, they may not only disturb the monitor, but they might prop open outside doors.

This violates closed-home conditions which states all exterior doors and windows must stay closed for the duration of the test.

Otherwise, the results may become contaminated and the home will have to be retested.

It’s better to drop off the Radon monitor BEFORE the home inspection so that you get the Radon results back before they start moving out.

That depends on you.

Most sellers DON’T because if the result comes back high, they’re pretty much obligated to deal with it.

But, some home sellers do test. It just depends on how much information they want to know and how eager they are to find potential problems with the home.

Neither way is right or wrong.

Probably not.

New home builders treat the property for termites at the time of construction.

But, if your loan program requires a termite letter as a part of your loan package, you’ll still need to get one.

Sure.

Termites can pop up at any time so this is a smart thing to do.

If you find termites (or any other wood-destroying insect) in or around your home, call a professional pest control company so they can treat the area before they cause structural damage.

If you live in a cold winter climate, this is best done during the spring and summer months, when they are more active and easier to find.

Another thing to remember is that inspection methods vary depending on the type of wood-destroying insects in your area.

This ranges from Dry wood termites to Formosan or Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants (or even the Carpenter Bees) to Powder Post Beetles.

Lastly, there are places where you can find a combination of these guys. Like Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants together.

They each have different inspection methods, and each leaves behind different clues.

These pointers are general in nature and don’t address a specific type of wood-destroying insect (WDI) or wood-destroying organism (WDO).

Whew! OK, let’s get going…

First, grab a flashlight and a long screwdriver. These are your tools.

Your screwdriver is for tapping on wood and stabbing any areas you might think have termites. If you also have a crawlspace or cellar you may want to put on your weekend work clothes because you’ll end up dirty before you’re done.

Next, start outside of the home.

Disturb any mulch and wood in contact with the soil as you walk around your home.

Get behind any bushes and inspect your foundation wall. Look for mud tubes, blistered wood, and pellets.

Look at your garage door frame for mud tubes and blistered wood. Open and check inside any bait traps around the perimeter of your yard.

Inside your home, start at the front door and check the walls, ceiling, baseboards, and windows. Look for termite wings, bodies, frass (piles of sawdust), mud, blistered wood, etc.

Open all exterior doors and check for wood decay at the bottom of doors and door frames.n

In the garage, walk around the perimeter looking closely at the concrete walls, garage door frame, and expansion joints for mud tubes.

Go into the attic and check gable vents for swarmer wings, pellets, and emergence holes.

If you have a basement or crawlspace, start at the ceiling and work your way down to the floor.

Look at the rim joist, subfloor, floor joists, main beam, and support posts.

Pay attention to areas of rot and moisture damage and areas between sistered joists.

Expect this to take about 1 hour to perform.

You’ll want to do this every year, especially if you live in an older, mature area.

No.

If you can see the mold there is no need to test. Fix the source, remove the mold, and repair the damage. Knowing what kind of mold you have does not eliminate the need to remove the moldy areas.

There are really only 3 situations when a mold test is necessary:

1. You get sick inside your home with flu-like symptoms and don’t know why

2. After a mold remediation and cleanup to make sure it’s all gone

3. The home you’re buying smells damp and musty, but you don’t see any mold (it might be hiding above ceilings and inside walls)

When it’s a small area.

In most cases, if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch) you can handle the job yourself. But, if you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting.

If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the EPA’s A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home. n

If you hire someone to do the cleanup, make sure they have experience cleaning up mold.

Inexperience and recklessness can do as much harm as good if mold spores get spread throughout the home (especially if your furnace or air conditioner is running). Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations provided in the EPA’s guide.

If you think there’s mold in your ductwork, read the EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before trying to clean it.

Again, be sure NOT to run the HVAC system because this will spread the mold all over the house.

Finally, if the water and/or mold damage was caused by raw sewage or other contaminated water, don’t try to do it yourself. Call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contamination.

No.

Federally Regulated protocols for mold inspections, mold testing, mold sampling, and mold remediation have not yet been established by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, OSHA or any other federal agency.

Do your due diligence when choosing a mold mitigation company and don’t be surprised if questionable-looking characters show up at your door.

There are 2 types:

1. Complete: The complete mold inspection is similar to a home inspection in its scope, but is specifically searching the home for mold or conditions which could lead to mold.

The complete mold inspection also involves moisture, temperature, and humidity measurements along with at least 4 mold samples (2 outside and 2 inside)

2. Limited: This is a mold inspection limited to a specific area of the home. It’s the test most normally performed when we can see existing mold and need to test for it.

The limited mold inspection involves at least 2 mold samples for the area of concern.

Between $250-$725

A complete mold inspection is $225 for the inspection and $125 per sample.

So a Complete mold inspection with 4 mold samples would cost $225 + $500 = $725.

A limited mold inspection will usually cost $125 per sample or a minimum of $250.

Get a mold inspection.

The mold inspector will check your home inside and out for conditions that could lead to mold and any areas where mold currently exists.

The inspector will also take mold samples to ensure there are no concealed elevated moisture levels within your home.

A mold testing company tests for mold.

A mold remediation company removes the mold and all affected areas.

Not necessarily. Get bids for repair and removal.

If the numbers still work after you’ve added them up, it could still be a sound investment.

Most mold testing results have a 48-hour turn-around time.

If they can fit you into their schedule, you still have time to get the results back before your inspection period ends.

Chinese Drywall refers to tainted drywall imported from China which corrodes copper and metal surfaces, often gives off a foul odor, and can make you sick.

There have been a few reports that homes built by large, national builders (like Pulte Homes) may have this Chinese drywall installed, leaving some room for concern.

How would you know if you’re buying a home with this drywall?

1. Does the home smell like rotten eggs or ammonia?

2. Is it more noticeable when entering your home and then seems to dissipate?

3. Chinese drywall corrodes electrical wiring. Check the electrical receptacles in your walls to see if the wires are blackened by pulling off an outlet cover or switch plate and looking inside.n

Chinese drywall is also friable, which means very small particles can easily dislodge and get into our lungs.

This is why the toxic particulates often remain even after Chinese drywall is removed from your home.

Yes, it’s called an energy audit.

A home energy audit is the first step in assessing how much energy your home consumes and evaluating what measures you can take to make it more energy efficient.

An audit will show you problem areas that can save you big bucks if corrected.

During the audit, it will become possible to pinpoint where your house is losing energy and determine the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems. It may also show you ways to conserve hot water and electricity.n

You can perform a simple energy audit yourself or have a professional energy auditor perform a more thorough audit.

An energy audit is a good idea for older homes (30+ years) and any home that could benefit from a little more efficiency from its systems and components.

The Green Home Guide.

It has excellent information about the 9 Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient.

This is something that will vary by area and you’ll also want to shop for prices since they do vary, but for the most part, the cost for a complete home energy efficiency audit will be in the ballpark of $400.

A home inspector.

A contractor is a specialist in one specific area while a home inspector is trained for this purpose. They will tell you what kind of shape the entire home is in.

Yes.

A home energy audit may be helpful. Older homes lose energy as they age, including around doors, windows, the attic, walls, appliances, and more.

Yes.

It’s common for a homeowner to reduce their utility bill up to 30% after implementing the improvements advised by the audit (almost $500 per year).

A home energy audit varies from a Home Maintenance Checkup because it focuses only on energy items. n

Things like:

• How much your home costs to operate
• Its indoor air quality
• The efficiency of the heating and cooling systems
• Energy loss of the building envelope (inside the “skin” of the home)
• It can even include an infrared camera to uncover invisible energy loss
• And what can be done to save energy and protect your environment

You have a few good ones.

1) Our 5-Point Major-Items inspection.

This bare-bones inspection checks the expensive areas of a home so you can quickly and with relatively little investment determine whether it’s a money pit or your dream home in disguise.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long, includes an online digital report with photos, and is delivered the same day.

But be sure all the utilities are on and the pilots are lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the main valve must be open, and water must flow through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

This meaty home inspection falls outside professional standards, so most home inspectors do not offer it.

2) Our 30-Min. Homebuyer Inspection Checklist.

This checklist is our 5-Point Major-Items inspection i print.

It’s a full-color .pdf that walks you through each of the 5 major areas, showing you where to look, what to look for, and whether it should be a major concern.

You can find this for sale on our website.

3) Our UpReach^™ Free Home Inspection Program

If you’re a deserving family with an underdog story and sacrificed and saved to afford a home, but can’t afford a quality home inspection, this program is for you.

Instead of forcing you to use someone cheap, new, or just plain bad, once a month we we give away one of our Gold Packages to the first lucky family that submits a request. That’s a real investment of $865 you get for free.

Not everyone qualifies, but if you think you do, click this link and fill out the form. We’ll contact you with our decision.

That’s a hard question to answer because there’s alot I don’t know about you or your situation.

For example,

1. What is the final purchase price of the house?
2. How much are any repairs going to cost?
3. What are comparable homes selling for?
4. How long am I going to be in the home?

These are about numbers.

But there are still personal criteria for your family:

1. Does it fit my circumstances?
2. Is it close to work?
3. Is it in my budget?
4. Are there enough bedrooms and bathrooms?
5. Can I afford the maintenance? (the inspection helps here)
6. Do I have the budget for repairs? (the inspection helps here, too)

The home inspection will help you understand what kind of condition the home is in so you can decide if it works for you and your family.

Always.

Buying a home is a big decision. You’re biting off alot of responsibility with maintenance, repairs, dues, payments, and all the details in between.

But remember, you’re paying good money for a trained professional to find issues with the home. Disturbing or distracting them while they work slows them down, disrupts their focus, and increases the chance they miss something so ask your questions and express concerns BEFORE the inspection and hole them until the END.

Let your home inspector a thorough home inspection so you’re not suffering through unwelcome surprises after you move in.

This is another question I can’t really answer for you.

Your circumstances and tastes are different.

Besides, the real question being asked is, “Did you find anything that would scare you away?”

I can answer that particular question as long as you’re willing to agree that there are 5 major areas in a home:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof
4. Electrical system
5. HVAC system

Those are the areas that produce 80% of all deal-killing defects and affect most buying decisions.

Yes.

This is important.

Your home is an engineering feat full of systems, components, and areas you’re now responsible for it.

1. Have questions. Write them down and ask them before the inspection or at the end.

2. Attend the inspection, but don’t distract the inspector while he’s working.

Instead, tour the home, take measurements, shadow the inspector, write down questions, and be there for the end. That’s the time to ask questions because that’s when he will have the answers.

Communication.

I remember when I first started in 2003.

I had just left NYC and was ready for something new.

When I arrived in Kansas City, I stumbled onto home inspections. It sounded fun, but I knew nothing about houses.

So I remember thinking, “How is it possible to check everything?”

I mean, there are just so many parts and pieces and systems and stuff.

And this is how alot of people feel. But, like anything else, it just takes practice. Lots of practice. In fact, years of practice.

So the better the home inspector, the better their understanding of the home, the simpler they communicate, the better you understand, and the better results you get when buying or negotiating the home.

The plumbing system.

Why? For 4 reasons:

1. Water leaks.

A home is 5 times more likely to incur water damage than fire damage. When a home becomes vacant and gets winterized (the drain lines are flushed and filled with anti-freeze), water and drain lines stop being used.

So, when the water is turned back on and the supply and drain lines are hit with the sudden surge of water pressure, the dry connections and split water lines spring a leak.

2. Cost to repair.

Water heater leakage, freezing pipes, broken washer hoses, sewer line trouble, and toilet overflows are the second most frequent insurance claim and cost more than $7B a year to fix.

3. Hidden leaks.

When a home is vacant, there’s sometimes no information about its history. That’s why it’s important to know how to operate a home and find those hidden problems before you close.

4. Mold growth.

This is the biggest reason the plumbing system is so important. Dark, humid conditions inside the home create the perfect environment for mold, which happens alot in unoccupied homes.

Once mold takes hold, you need to fix the source and repair the damage it causes.

Where do most plumbing leaks come from?

According to the insurance company Safeco:

• 30 percent were due to appliance failure

• 62 percent were due to faulty plumbing

• 8 percent were due to weather

Make sure all the utilities are turned on and the pilots are lit.

1. The gas.

For operating the water heater, furnace, and oven (if installed). The home inspector will not light pilots so make sure all pilots are lit on all appliances at least 24 hours before the inspection starts.

Because of the moving parts involved, turning on gas is often the most difficult utility to turn on.

2. The water.

Because we run water through the drain lines and check for leaks.

When a home is vacant we run the water for the duration of the inspection to make sure there are no unwelcome plumbing problems after you move in.

This is the 2nd most difficult utility to get turned on.

3. The electricity.

We need to check all electrical components and ensure they’re working properly. This includes the A/C system.

This is the easiest utility to get turned on.

Look at 6 things:

Above all else, try to get a referral from someone you trust. There’s nothing better than first-hand experience from a friend or family member.

If not, make sure:

1. To read their online reviews
2. The inspector is a full-time professional
3. The inspector belongs to a professional organization like ASHI^™ or Inter NACHI^®.
4. You understand what they’re inspecting
5. The inspector carries Errors & Omissions and General Liability insurance (to protect you and them if the inspector misses something).
6. They’re responsive, and you get along with them

This is a good, basic question. Many home buyers (and even agents) don’t exactly know what a home inspector does. So let me clear the smoke.

There are 2 aspects to every home inspection:

1st – A home inspection is a visual, non-intrusive, and fair effort to discover the real material condition of the home during the time and day the inspection takes place.

2nd – A home inspection isn’t really about the home inspector telling you what’s wrong with the home more than it is a discovery session for you to make sure you understand what you’re buying so that you can decide if it falls within your expectations and is a good fit for your situation.

You see, as a professional home inspector my job is to make sure I align the reality of the home’s condition with your expectations. If I can successfully do that, then I’ve done my job.

And that’s really it. It’s limited in scope by what can be seen and tested, which particularly applies to vacant homes where there is no past information so the inspector is forced to play detective and do the best they can during the short period of time that they’re there.

If time permits, you should be encouraged to take advantage of this rare opportunity to follow a professional around your home who will invite your questions, concerns, and impart key information and advice that will certainly help you buy your home with confidence.

At the very least, it should involve the inspection of the:

1. Landscaping
Grading and drainage	Driveways
Walkways	Porches
Decks	Patios
Walkouts	Terraces

2. Exterior
Retaining walls	Foundation
Siding, flashing, and trim	Chimneys
Windows	Window wells
Exterior doors	Exterior lighting
Outlets and switches	Ceiling fans

3. Cooling System
A/C or heat pump?	Condenser unit
Refrigerant lines	Evaporator unit
Air distribution system	Operating controls

4. Roof
Gutters and downspouts	Soffits and fascias
Roof covering	Roof ventilation
Flashings	Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations

5. Carport
Floor	Walls
Guardrail	Ceiling
Lighting	Circuit wires
Outlets	Access doors

6. Attic
Roof structure	Insulation
Attic access	Ventilation, fans, and exhaust
Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations	Circuit wiring

7. All Rooms
Floor	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Closet and door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Heat source	Smoke detector

8. Bathrooms
Functional flow	Floors
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Doors
Lighting	Ceiling fan
All outlets and switches	Exhaust fan
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drains	Vanity, cabinets, and countertops
Pantry	Toilet
Tub and enclosure	Jetted tub and enclosure
Heat source

9. Floors/Hallways/Stairways/Loft
Floors	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Lighting	Ceiling fan
Attic fan	All outlets and switches
Closets and doors	Stairs and railings
Front door	Patio door
Smoke detectors	Heat source

10. Kitchen
Functional flow	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Door
Patio door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Cabinets and countertops
Pantry	Garbage disposal
Dishwasher	Stove/oven/cooktop
Range hood	Microwave
Refrigerator	Trash compactor
Heat source

11. Fireplaces and wood stoves
Fireplace or wood stove?	Front/mantle/hearth
Door/screen	Firebox
Damper control	Chimney and flue
Electric start function	Blower and fan
Gas valve

12. Garage
Roof	Exterior foundation
Exterior siding	Garage doors
Garage door openers	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Lighting
All outlets	Circuit wiring
Patio doors	Access door
Central heating	Central cooling
Space heating	Sink

13. Basement
Stairs and railing	Floor
Foundation and walls	Ceiling/sub-floor
Rim/floor joists	Columns, beams, and posts
Vents or windows	Walkout doors
Doors	Lighting
Ceiling fans	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Circuit wiring
Insulation	Heat source
Smoke detector

14. Laundry
Floor	Walls
Ceiling	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Lighting	All outlets and switches
Tub/faucet	Trap/drain
Washer/dryer	Heat source
Smoke detector

15. Central heating
Energy source	Heating equipment
Operating controls	Safety controls
Chimneys, flues, and vents	Heat distribution system
Heat source in each living space	Smoke/CO detector in space
Furnace enclosure

16. Plumbing
Water main supply	Water main shutoff valve
Hose bibs	Distribution piping
Interior drains, waste, and vents	Fuel distribution system
Water heater	Sump pumps

17. Electrical
Service entrance	Distribution panel
Sub-panel	Grounding
Circuit wiring

18. Fire safety

19. Appliances (that stay with home)

You should be present and actively involved in what will surely become an on-site education on the finer points of your new home.

At its best, your inspection will see you actively participate and involved in what will become an on-site educational course on the finer points of your home.

This is an important question because it makes sure you understand the limitations of a home inspection and will not be disappointed later.

In fact, a few things are excluded from a home inspection, and some might not get inspected or tested because the inspector cannot access them.

These are the most common items that are normally excluded from a home inspection:

1. A home’s market value
2. A home’s property lines
3. Cosmetic items
4. Wear-and-tear items (carpet, holes in walls, scratches, paint, knobs, etc.)
5. Swimming pools
6. Hot tubs
7. Sprinkler systems
8. Telephone lines
9. Fences
10. Cable lines
11. Surround sound systems
12. Sewer lines
13. Insulation in walls
14. R-value of windows
15. Proper sizing of central heating unit
16. Proper sizing of central cooling unit
17. Proper sizing of water heater
18. Cost estimates for repairs

A specialized inspector can still inspect some of these items for an additional fee, but they all fall outside a normal home inspection.  

This is a list of areas you’ll want to make sure are open, unlocked, unblocked, and accessible BEFORE the inspection starts:

1. Crawlspace
2. Main electrical panels
3. Furnace panels
4. A/C condensers
5. Water heaters
6. Attic access panels
7. Detached garages
8. Closets
9. Roof

Most home inspectors will not move heavy personal items that are blocking their way because sellers can be pretty sensitive about their belongings.  

That’s why clutter, shelves, and storage items should be moved before the inspection starts.

For a complete list, here is the professional home inspector’s Standards of Practice.

Knowing this ahead of time can help you help the home inspector give you the best inspection possible.

For a lot of good reasons.

First, you need to know what kind of condition your home is in (it’s the things we can’t see that scare us). This is especially true if the home has been vacant for any period of time.

Second, it would be outrageously expensive to call out a licensed professional to evaluate the condition of every single system and component in a home. For example, let’s say we have the hourly rates of certified professionals:

• Electrician = $95/hour
• HVAC technician = $85/hour
• Roofer = $85/hour
• Foundation specialist = $80/hour
• Plumber = $95/hour
• A good handyman for everything else = $100/hour

This way, a 2-hour inspection of every component in a home would easily cost over $890 for the standard-sized home (approx. 1,500 ft²) and would also be a nightmare coordinating all of them to show up and then deliver their findings during your inspection period.

Third, you may run into “Rush Charges” of 20% or more by these technicians because these professionals have to squeeze you into their busy schedule during your short inspection period.

Fourth, these technicians don’t provide professional inspection reports for their findings, which your lender requires.

Fifth, though these are technical professionals, trained in their field to troubleshoot and repair.  They are not trained to evaluate and troubleshoot a whole home.

Lastly, because no house is perfect.

There is always something to be found in every home, which might lead to problems later.

No. A house cannot fail a home inspection.

This is a common misconception. A home can only fail a city code inspection (if your area has building codes) when your home was first built or when any changes are made to the home that require a building permit to be issued to the licensed contractor that is doing the work. This ensures the work is done correctly by licensed professionals.

On the contrary, a professional home inspection is for your benefit. You can use the information to negotiate repairs with the seller, budget for repairs, or you can ignore it all and chuck the report in the trash. It’s all up to you.

These are non-profit governing bodies for the home inspection industry that decided long ago how inspectors should behave.

It includes a code of ethics, continuing education requirements, and the minimum number of items that must inspected in every home (about 430+ items).

So, just like building codes that dictate bare minimum requirements to build a safe house, InterNACHI^® and ASHI^™ dictate bare minimum requirements that a home inspector must abide by in order to be considered professional.

Also, since both organizations essentially perform the same function, a home inspector does not need to belong to more than one (although some states don’t even require a home inspector to belong to either).

So what does this mean to you as a home buyer?

You can find comfort in knowing you can expect a minimum level of consistency regardless of who you choose to work with. But with thousands of items that can break and leak in and around a home, you’ll always want more than that.

Here’s what ASHI^™ and InterNACHI^® are not:

1. They aren’t an insurance company to protect you if a home inspector misses something.

2. They aren’t a group that could punish a home inspector or kick them out of the home inspection industry for acting unethically or unprofessionally (there are exceptions that involve revoking their license, but this is not common).

Not at all.

That’s alot like saying all auto mechanics, hairdressers, and attorneys are all the same.

And just like those professions, it takes years to master the craft. So less experienced operators won’t have the same well of knowledge, experience, and efficiency as someone with 20 years and tens of thousands of inspections behind them.

This keeps them from seeing the bigger picture so their interpretations of outcomes may be different than someone who has seen a particular defect and its various causes hundreds of times before.

This is also why home inspections vary in price.

Most Inspections take between 2 to 3 hours.

The things that affect the time will be inspector experience along with size, age, and condition. A good inspector will invite you to attend, but will not allow themselves to be distracted by conversation. You should follow them and observe if you want, but they’re there with a single purpose – to make sure you know what you’re buying and have no unwelcome surprises after you move in.

Conversations can happen in the beginning and the end, but in the middle you should let them earn their fee.

No. And for 2 reasons:

1st – Their knowledge is specific and specialized. If you hire the right home inspector, you’re hiring an experienced professional who knows a house inside and out. They’ll not only study the mechanical and structural systems, but also to check to make sure they’re working together and identify areas that need to be monitored, repaired, or replaced.

Think of a home inspector as your family doctor. A person doesn’t go straight to a brain surgeon when they have a headache; it’s just too expensive and too specialized. You visit your family doctor who will diagnose the problem and then, if necessary, send you to the specialist. That’s how the professional engineer and all other specialists (HVAC, foundation, electrician, roofing, plumbing, etc.) fit into the scope of the inspection process. Occasionally, a home inspector may identify the need for a more detailed analysis of one or more of the home’s systems or structures and in these cases, the appropriate professional will be recommended.

2nd – You need someone to professionally and objectively communicate their findings. The importance of this skill cannot be overemphasized. This is what really distinguishes the abilities of a professional home inspector from a professional engineer. As a basic necessity, a home inspector is continually educated and experienced in not only verbal communication, but in written communication. By trade, a professional engineer doesn’t have the need to be careful with the wording of their findings while a professional home inspector fully understands their role in the sales process and is equipped with both the communication skills and home inspection reporting tools to deliver a timely, thorough, careful, and appropriate ‘big picture’ analysis of the home.

As a matter of fact, hiring a professional engineer on your own can be a disappointing experience. In many states a licensed engineer can perform a home inspection without being certified. The term ‘professional engineer’ or ‘PE’ does not mean the individual has training or experience conducting home inspections. Therefore, hiring a professional engineer to complete a home inspection will likely cost you more money and not deliver the results you are looking for (or deserve).

No.

No home inspection company will ever be able to predict or anticipate every repair or maintenance item encountered while owning a home.

The purchase and ownership of any home brings ongoing maintenance and a certain amount of risk and unfortunately things sometimes go wrong after the inspection. It can’t be avoided or predicted. Annually, you can expect to spend about 1% of your home’s value on maintenance, but that formula along with the home inspection report is the closest any home inspector can come to predicting future costs and repairs.

Also, a home inspection does not represent an insurance policy. All it signifies is the material condition of your home during the time of the inspection. For detailed information on a home warranty, contact your closest real estate professional.

As a matter of fact, I do.

I have some super cool resources designed to help you every step of the way…and beyond. These useful checklists help buyers and sellers through the home-buying process.

1. The Ultimate House Hunting Checklist—From the neighborhood to the home, navigate your house hunting by comparing each home using 23 important criteria that help you remember what matters most. It’s free to use.

2. The 30-Min. DIY Home Inspection Checklist – Put my experience in your hands as you walk through each home and I show you how to check the 5 major areas in every home in about 30 min.

This will not replace a home inspection, but it will reduce the chance that you’ll call a home inspector over major defects you could’ve found yourself.

You’ll find it for sale on our website for $18.99.

3. Home Maintenance Schedules—You just had it inspected; now keep it protected. These maintenance schedules provide you with ongoing and seasonal maintenance items to ensure your home stays in tip-top shape for as long as you own it. Free – just click the link.

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

4. Building Material Life Span Guide—This Guide is free with every home inspection. It helps you understand how much life is left on your roof, water heater, furnace, and more than 300 other items. It’s a valuable resource as your home grows and ages. And it’s only available here.

5. Home Remodeling Cost Estimates Guide—This is also free with every home inspection. It is a helpful tool to help you prepare for the cost of repair or upgrades on over 500 items. Use it to help you figure out the cost of upgrading the countertops or finishing your basement. And it’s only available here.

Payment for home inspections is almost always due at the end of the inspection.

Your inspector should accept personal checks, cash, money orders, cashier’s checks, and credit cards.

If you are unable to attend the inspection, you will likely be expected to pay through credit card or e-check, mail the check at the time of scheduling, or have your representative or agent provide payment at the time of the inspection.

Also, a paid invoice should be included with your home inspection report, and the report will probably NOT be released until payment is made unless arrangements have been made in advance.

This is discouraged in the industry.

Because there are so many things that can go wrong between the inspection and closing. So if you ask for payment to be made at closing and don’t buy the home, they’ll have little recourse to collect for services on a home you don’t own.

So if it’s unavoidable and there is no other option then a credit card number is usually given or a check is written to the inspector at the time of inspection with the understanding that if no closing occurs the credit card will be run or the check will be deposited.

Between $300-$2000.

But it depends on the inspection company and several other variables:

1. The square footage
2. The age
3. The sale price
4. Crawlspace
5. Weekend or evening
6. Or an hourly rate

Then there are other inspections:

1. Termite inspection
2. Radon test
3. Sewer scope inspection
4. Mold testing
5. Structural

One may use square footage, while another uses both square footage and age to determine their price. One may charge if the home has a crawlspace and another may not. And another may charge for a weekend inspection and another might charge a flat rate of $100 per hour with a 3 hour minimum.

As you can see, it depends. And every inspector has their own reasons for doing it the way they do.

But you’re really paying for the inspector’s experience, efficiency, and results, so the greater the certainty and clarity, the higher the price.

That said, don’t choose a cheap inspector. The insight and cost savings you get from a good home inspection are very real and will always save you money, time, and headaches later.

Need? No. Highly encouraged? Definitely.

It’s always a great idea to be there, but it’s not critical. You can always discuss findings over the phone and your inspector will always be available for any questions later.

If you can’t be there for the whole thing, try to make it at the end. That’s the most important time because your inspector will go over the findings and have the answers to your questions. This should only take about 15 minutes.

The same day.

This isn’t true for all home inspectors and sometimes unexpected surprises get in the way with us, but it’s a promise we keep 99.9% of the time.

It will be emailed to you.

On rare occasion, an inspector will hand write their report, but 99% deliver them electronically either as a pdf attachment or HTML report.

Don’t have an email? You can for the inspection or give us the email of someone you trust. If that’s not an option, your real estate agent can print it out for you. As a last resort, your inspector can print it out for you.

For a pre-owned home you should schedule your home inspection as soon as your offer is accepted.

You usually have between seven and fourteen days after your sales contract is signed to get a home inspection. The sooner you can get the home inspected, the more time you’ll have to deal with any unexpected issues that come up afterward.

If you’re buying a new construction home, you should schedule your home inspection after all the work is complete but BEFORE your builder walkthrough. This lets you have the report while you’re walking through the home with the builder.

Yes.

But keep in mind that distractions diminish the quality of your home inspection.

So feel free to follow your inspector, but avoid having conversations that will keep him from doing his work.

In fact, try to keep all conversations out of his earshot so he can concentrate.

It’s best to limit conversations to the beginning and end of the home inspection.

Yes.

But remember that the sole purpose of a home inspection is to find defects in your new home.

It’s not a time to grill your inspector about maintenance and repairs or issues you are having in your current home. He’s trying to stay focused to connect the dots and uncover the hidden story the home has to tell. Distracting them is counterproductive.

You’re spending several hundred (sometimes thousands) of dollars for a professional to do one thing. Let them do it.

If you have pressing questions, ask them before the inspection or write them down and ask them at the end. That’s when they’ll have the answers.

No. Not if you take your home seriously.

And the answer is obvious. They don’t know what they’re doing. This is probably the 2nd biggest mistake many people make when buying a home (the 1st is not getting a home inspection in the first place).

Even if the person is in the trades, they’re don’t have the same critical eye and training as someone conditioned to uncover visible – and invisible – defects in and around a home (also see Q8 “Am I missing out on any expertise by not using a professional engineer?”).

In fact, we get what’s called an “inspector’s instinct” for problems. That instinct takes extensive training and experience to develop. That’s why many contractors and other trades professionals hire a professional home inspector to inspect their own homes when they make a purchase.n

If they trust us, you should, too.

Always, if it’s safe.

But did you know home inspectors are not required to walk on a roof?

That said, I’ve found it impossible to give a proper inspection without walking on a roof (hail damage is sometimes impossible to see from even 10 feet away), so I will always get up there (sometimes to my own detriment).

If I can’t, then I’ll try to get to the roof’s edge and take the best look I can.

When will I NOT walk on a roof?

When it’s clearly unsafe, or the shingles are too fragile:

1. Wood shingles
2. Tile or slate shingles
3. When the roof is too steep
4. When the roof has a steep slope and it’s raining
5. After the rain has stopped, but the roof is still wet
6. It’s covered in snow
7. It’s covered in ice
8. It’s covered in moss (this stuff is slick!)
9. There’s a serious obstruction like a tree or power line blocking the way.

These conditions are not common, but they do happen, and it’s important to understand the limitations so you don’t have disappointment or unmet expectations later.

So now you may be thinking, “Will the inspector come back later to re-inspect the roof?”

The answer to that question is in Q47.

Great question.

I always try to walk a roof, even in ice and snow. And even though a home inspector is not required to walk on the roof, it’s the best way to determine its true condition.

But, you have a few options:

1. If you have time in your inspection period, I’d wait. The best time to inspect a home is the day after it rains. This lets me see if the foundation leaks after the water has time to soak into the ground and put both moisture and pressure against the foundation wall.

2. If time doesn’t allow or your schedule keeps you from attending another day, we should move forward with the inspection. If I can walk it, I will. If not, I can still get up to the roof edge and get inside the attic to get a complete picture of the roof structure.

3. I can come back another day to inspect the roof, but there is an additional fee.

No.

When the outside air temperature has been less than 60 degrees within 24 hours of the inspection the air conditioning system cannot be tested.

This is not just a limitation to a home inspection. Most HVAC technicians will not test a/c systems when it’s cold outside, either.

The reason? To put it plainly the refrigerant that runs through the a/c system can harden. If the system is operated after this happens, it could cause damage.

This is why many home warranty companies recognize include a cold weather clause in their contract.

This protects you when you buy a home in cold weather in case the a/c system does not work when you try to use it in the spring.

To be honest, this question is too big for this guide, but we cover it in our blog post, Kansas City foundation types—The Complete Breakdown.

Many types of cracks appear not only in the foundation but also in the walls, ceilings, and floors.

But I’ll touch on the types of cracks that give my clients the biggest scares.

Most of the time, they worry about foundation cracks.

There are 3 different types of foundation cracks:

1. Shrinkage cracks—These are hairline cracks that occur due to the normal drying and shrinkage of the concrete.

In fact, there are 2 promises they make in the concrete business:

1) It will get hard

2) It will crack.

90% of the time, these hairline cracks are harmless. They will be random and can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal.

2. Settlement cracks—These are caused by movement in the soil around your home. They can be major concerns, particularly if they go all the way through the foundation or are greater than ¼”.

These are almost always vertical or diagonal and will start at the floor and move upward.

3. Hydrostatic (Horizontal) Cracks—When people talk about bad foundation cracks, this is it. These are caused when the soil pushes the foundation wall inward and often require a support system to keep the cracking from getting worse.

Home inspectors are trained to evaluate and report on all types of cracks. If you have any questions about the type of crack you have or how serious it is, never hesitate to ask your inspector.

It depends on the type of shingle and where it is.

This question is answered in depth in our blog post on KC area roof types and in our Building Materials Lifespan Guide, which you can get for free after a home inspection.

This was the standard method of wiring homes in North America between 1875 and 1930.

It consists of copper wires run through ceramic knobs and tubes and uses air to dissipate heat. This is why early homes were built without insulation in the walls or attic.

While not inherently unsafe, having knob-n-tube wiring in your home does present some safety issues, most of which come from the system becoming brittle with age, improper splicing into modern wires, and covering with insulation in attics and walls.

You also can’t safely use 3-prong outlets with knob-n-tube wiring. Here’s a graphic to show you what it looks like:

Today, many homeowner insurance companies have issues with these homes, so I always tell my clients to contact their insurance company to ensure coverage is available and reasonable.

Learn more about your home’s electrical service in our blog post.

No.

We don’t know if it’s off for a reason so it’s not safe to just start turning on gas valves to appliances even if we’ve been given permission (alot of times the person giving permission is not the same person who turned it off and does not really know why it was turned off or why it’s still turned off). This should be done before the inspection starts.

Only by flipping the switch to an electric start gas fireplace.

Lighting a fire will only impede the inspection process and prevent a home inspector from inspecting your fireplace and chimney.

As a side note, you should also remember that a home inspection is visual in nature and the inspector will only be able to take a look up the chimney with their flashlight.

Therefore, if you have any particular reason for concern, it’s always a good idea to call a professional chimney sweep to do an in-depth evaluation, which usually includes sending a light and camera up the chimney.

Contact your inspector and discuss all aspects of your home whenever you like.

Our service is a long-term investment for as long as you own the home.

Not necessarily.

Good real estate agents live and breathe in the world of real estate. They’ve been around for years and there’s a reason for it…they surround themselves professionals they can trust – including their home inspectors.

They are constantly bombarded with the advertisements from home inspection companies and other vendors; but with the help of other seasoned agents and their broker, they weed out the good ones from the bad.

Again, I’m talking about real estate agents who operate with high integrity. Someone who works off referral business and wins over their clients with service, experience, and knowledge. A good agent is one whose response to a home that has many things found wrong after the home inspection is:

“Good thing we got it inspected, now let’s go find that dream home.”

Am I also suggesting that if an agent only uses one inspector, that you should use them? Maybe.

That agent may be surrounding themselves with a “team” so that they can deliver a quality and consistent experience for their client. In order to do that everyone on their “team” plays a vital role.

Be just as selective about your home inspector as you were the agent you chose to work with and the home you decided to buy because you’re signing up with their team, too. Be picky, interview a few, and choose the best fit for you.

Yes.

Click here to view and download FHA requirements.

Yes.

Click here to view and download the checklist of VA requirements.

There are only a few core inspections but several special inspections.

For example, I offer 5 types of home inspections:

1. Whole-house inspection
2. Major-items inspection
3. Radon testing
4. Termite inspection
5. Sewer scope inspection

These 5 cover most needs.

But, there are some very particular inspections that are not so common:

1. Asbestos testing
2. Lead-based paint
3. Carbon Monoxide
4. Septic System Inspections
5. Well water inspections
6. New construction phase inspections
7. Stucco/EIFS inspections
8. Infrared testing
9. Swimming pool
10. Mold testing
11. Fireplace chimney

Yes.

Feel free to use this time to get as much done as possible. If you need to schedule the appraisal, the carpet guys, the painter, the granite guy, the decorator, and give your in-laws a tour, go right ahead (just remember Q19).

The only time that might not be a good idea is if a Radon test is being conducted. According to EPA Radon protocol, closed-house conditions much be kept the entire time the electronic monitor is in place. This means all windows and exterior doors must be kept closed (except for occasional use while coming and going).

Yes.

You’re paying for a single visit to the home. That’s why everything should be turn on, unlocked, unblocked, and lit before the inspection starts. There’s an opportunity cost when you take a spot reserved for a full inspection, that’s why there’s a fee.

No.

You can order a stake survey for about $450 that will tell you exactly where your property line is so you can determine if there are any encroachments or easements on your property.

No.

A home inspector can only tell you what kind of condition the home is in. The appraiser will tell you how many square feet your property is (along with its tax value).

Not usually.

Weekends are for family and I don’t work unless the situation is important. Newer and less experienced will often work weekends to get more experience, though.

At the time of this writing, there is no state licensing for home inspectors in either Kansas or Missouri.

At the time of this writing, home inspectors in neither Kansas nor Missouri must carry errors and omissions insurance.

Contact your home inspector.

There may come a time when you find something wrong with your house after you move in that makes you upset or disappointed with your home inspection.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

Intermittent or Concealed Problems: Some problems can only be discovered by living in a house. They can’t be discovered during the course of a few hours, even with a home inspection. Sometimes problems are hidden inside walls, under floors, and above ceilings. Some roofs and basements only leak under certain conditions. And some problems are hidden beneath carpet or behind furniture and storage items.

No Clues: These problems may have existed at the time of the inspection, but there were no clues as to their existence.

Home inspections are based on the past performance of the house. If there are no clues of a past problem, it’s not fair to think we should be able to predict a problem in the future.

Minor Things: Some say home inspectors are inconsistent because no two reports are the same. This is true. Sometimes small things get overlooked because they’re small, but the major defects should be found no matter what.

Contractor’s Advice: A common source of disappointment and bad advice comes from subcontractors. Contractor opinions often have nothing to do with home inspection guidelines. Don’t be surprised when three roofers all say the roof has a few more good years left after we say it needs to be replaced, and vice versa.

Last-Man-In Theory: While we often give the most prudent advice, alot of contractors avoid doing the work. This is because of the last-man-in theory.

This theory states that the last man to touch something gets the blame if something goes wrong later.

For example, if he’s the last person to work on the roof, he gets blamed if the roof leaks, regardless of the actual cause. So, instead of conceding to a small repair with greater liability, he pushes for the whole roof to be replaced for more money and a lower likelihood of callback.

Most Recent Advice Is Best: The last-man-in theory has more to it. It also suggests that homeowners tend to believe the last piece of expert advice they get, even if it contradicts previous advice.

As home inspectors, we’re often the first-man-in so our advice ultimately gets dismissed later.

Why Didn’t We See It? Last-man-in contractors have the luxury of saying, “I can’t believe you had this house inspected and the inspector didn’t find this problem.” There are several reasons for this:

Most don’t understand a home inspection and make claims that upset homebuyers based on opinion, instead of fact.

Conditions during The Inspection: It can be difficult to remember the conditions inside the house during the inspection. It’s easy to forget if it was snowing, the basement was packed with boxes, if the air conditioner was tested, etc. This means it’s impossible for 3rd party contractors to know what the circumstances were when the inspection was performed.

The Wisdom of Hindsight: When a problem manifests, it’s easy to use 20/20 hindsight. Anyone can say the basement gets wet when there is 2 feet of water on the floor. Predicting the problem is a different story.

A Longer Look: If we spent 30-minutes under the kitchen sink or 45 minutes disassembling the furnace, we’d find more problems. But, the inspection would take several days and cost thousands more.

The Family Doctor: We’re generalists, not specialists. And just like the difference between your family doctor and an oncologist, we must know as much as we can about every system in your home, but not everything about one.

For example, the heating contractor will have more heating expertise than we do. That’s because we have heating, plumbing, structural, electrical, etc. expertise.

An Invasive Look: Problems often become apparent when carpets or plaster are removed, fixtures or cabinets are pulled out, and so on. A home inspection is a visual examination. We don’t perform invasive or destructive tests.

Not Insurance: A professional home inspection protects you from buying a money pit, but it doesn’t mitigate all risk. That’s why a home inspection should NOT be considered an insurance policy. The premium you’d have to pay for a policy with no deductible, no limit and an indefinite policy period would be considerably more than the fee we charge.

This is a lot to take in and this discussion is not meant to make excuses for any items that are blatantly missed. In those cases, the inspector is responsible should take responsibility for the oversight.

However, inspectors are not psychic, cannot see through walls, and cannot predict problems in the future.

This means you owe it to yourself to understand the limitations of the inspection process before you order one.

Because quality is different. In fact, 60% of home inspectors drop out within 12 months so if you work with someone brand new, chances are they won’t be around this time next year.

The price includes their time, effort, training, experience, creativity, curiosity, commitment, intuition, efficiency, skill, and ability.

You get what you pay for.

From 1 month to 1 year.

A home is under constant stress both inside and out so things can change quickly. If you’re looking at a home that had an inspection performed more than a month ago – especially if it’s vacant – it’s still a good idea to get one for yourself.n

But, if you already live in the home and wanna use your inspection report to create a list of repairs, that’s what it’s for.

Not at all.

Homes break down and deteriorate. If there are potential hidden problems, they need to be inspected.

For example, a home seller can inspect their home before they put it on the market.

Real estate investors can inspect the homes they buy so they know their condition and can budget for repairs.

Apartment complexes and commercial properties need to be inspected, as well.

Yes. I’ve never encountered a professional home inspector who wasn’t.

To become certified, a professional home inspector must train and pass a series of exams that cover topics ranging from ethics to foundations to equipment.

This is why it’s a bad idea to use a friend or family member.

So if someone only performs commercial inspections, don’t use them. Commercial inspections are very different from a residential inspection.

Yes. $295.

Repairs should be performed by qualified professionals who provide a scope of work, contact information, proof of payment, and (hopefully) a warranty. And get all of this in your possession before closing.

So it shouldn’t be necessary for a generalist to come back and check the work of a specialist.

But, if you decide you still want a re-inspection, expect to pay $50 – $195. A little steep, but that’s the price you pay for taking a calendar slot normally reserved for a full inspection.

No.

And neither should any certified home inspector who charges for their service. That’s a conflict of interest and an ethics violation.

For as long as you own your home.

A home inspector should be available to answer any questions you have about your home for as long as you live there.

Understand the difference between Major, Maintenance, and Safety Items.

Most inspectors will summarize the inspection findings based on how important they are, such as:

1. Safety items
2. Major items
3. Maintenance items.

This lets you skip the maintenance items and go straight to the problems considered to be signifcant defects and safety issues.

If you’re negotiating with a seller, safety and major items are normally considered important issues, while maintenance items might get put on the ‘honey do’ list after you move in.

Yes.

It’s called the Homebuyer’s DIY 30-min. Home Inspection Checklist.

This checklist gets straight to the point and shows you not only what to look at, but also what to look for so you’re not wasting money inspecting a home that might scare you into changing your mind after it’s over. Now you’ll know BEFORE the inspection.

But let me be very clear: This basic checklist is NEITHER intended to—nor capable of—replacing an honest-to-goodness professional home inspection.

It’s only meant to help you recognize a few of the biggest and most common problems I find in the major areas that tend to change people’s minds so you’ll know ahead of time if you’ll be biting off more than you can chew.

Yes. Absolutely.

In fact, this is how I think homes should be bought and sold.

Here are some obvious benefits:

1. You find out what kind of condition your home is in before your buyers do.n

2. Once the inspection results come back, you get to make repairs on your schedule using the contractors you choose.

3. You can now list any items you’re not willing to repair as non-negotiable in your seller’s disclosure.

4. You can choose to raise your selling price because you know nothing major will show up during the buyer’s inspection.

5. You can use your home inspection report as a marketing tool and show it to your prospective buyers (this can even convince buyers to skip their own inspection).

There are other really good reasons, too. In fact, check out an article I wrote a few years ago on the subject. I think it may be eye-opening:

Pre-Listing Inspections: A Sure Sell?

The seller inspection is slightly more thorough.

That’s because your report will be compared to your buyer’s inspection report after you accept their offer and you don’t want any major differences when that happens.

Congratulations. You accepted an offer and you’re about to get hit with the home inspection.

Don’t fret.

There are several things you can do to smooth out your upcoming inspection.

Outside the home:

1. Remove any storage, debris, and wood that is making contact with the ground. These may be noted as termite conditions.

2. Trim back tree limbs 10’ from the roof and trim shrubs 1’ from the house to allow access.

Inside the home:

3. Confirm that water, electric, and gas service is on and all pilots are lit (if vacant).

4. Lock up pets or take them with you when you leave.

5. Replace burned-out bulbs.

6. Test smoke detectors and replace dead batteries.

7. Install a Carbon Monoxide detector (if applicable) on each floor.

8. Clean or replace dirty furnace filters. Make sure they fit securely.

9. Remove anything blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics, and crawl spaces.

10. Unlock areas the inspector needs to get into – attic doors, electric service panels, closets, fence gates, garages, sheds, and crawl spaces.

11. Repair broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; deck spindles, gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Here’s a 4-page home seller guide with all these and more.

Absolutely.

No home is perfect, and even if you trust your builder, they’re not the one hammering the nails and slapping on shingles…it’s the sub-contractors he hires.

The builder will probably not be aware of the problems that will be found, but they will be happy to fix them.

Common problems found are:

1. leaking pipes
2. bad wiring
3. poor shingle installation
4. furnace problems
5. air conditioner problems

That’s just a start…last year I went into 2 BRAND NEW homes that had NO insulation in the attic.

Always get a new home inspected. The cost and headache of dealing with messy problems later are more than worth the investment in ensuring that doesn’t happen to you.

Before your final walkthrough with the builder.

Order the inspection too soon and not only do you risk having things like sinks not be installed, but the inspector will be marking items they just haven’t instaled, yet.

Too late and you miss your chance to fix issues before closing.

The sweet spot is AFTER the work is completed (and everyone is out), but BEFORE the final walkthrough.n

That short window lets you share defects with the builder before closing so they can get fixed before you move in.

Maybe.

Brand new homes are covered by a 12-month new construction warranty. The scope of these warranties diminish over time, but during the first 12-months they cover nearly every item in the home.

If the home is only 6 months old, I’d tell your friends to compile a list and give it straight to the builder.

The builder will coordinate with the sub-contractor who’s responsible and arrange a visit to fix the problems.

But try to be home during that time.

Some builders will say it’s not necessary, but it protects you:

1. You can verify the sub-contractor actually showed up and when

2. You can make sure nothing else gets damaged in the process.

3. You can make sure the work gets done right

I once had broken floor tiles in my bathroom. I wasn’t home to open the door when the sub-contractor came so he left the materials on my front porch and left.

Don’t let this happen to you.

Yes.

Here’s why:

1. You’ve been living there almost a year and might overlook things.

2. You have one chance to capture all the cracks, dings, and shifting so use an objective professional and do it right the first time.

3. There’s often problems you can’t see or haven’t found that the inspector will ensure make their way onto your repair list

First, keep your cool.

I know this is frustrating, but you’re negotiating with the person responsible for building and (hopefully) repairing whatever breakdown or damage your home is experiencing. You want to diffuse the situation. Many times, builders are just really busy.

Others are resistant and hope your problem will go away.

Either way, you want the swiftest resolution possible.

First, find your home warranty paperwork. You may recognize one of these popular programs:

1. 2-10 Home Warranty
2. Quality Builder’s Warranty
3. RWC

Next, look up your problem and see if it’s covered under the warranty. If it is, support your claim by knowing exactly where to find it.

Call the warranty company and explain the situation. Work with them; they will contact the builder and help you escalate the issue.

Join our newsletter.

It will give you monthly maintenance and repair tips along with unique recommendations based on your particular home.

For basic seasonal tips, click one of the links below:

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

Our customers also get the Home Maintenance and Repair book for dummies.

Yes.

it’s called a Home Maintenance Checkup and it’s an inspection designed for fair weather because there’s too many things that can’t be tested or inspected when it’s cold.

It’s also extremely underutilized. Mainly because most homeowners and real estate agents don’t know about it. But it’s a great tool to help your home stay in tip top shape.

It’s designed to tell you (among other things):

• How much insulation you have in the attic (and how much you should have)
• How your windows are performing
• How your furnace is performing
• How your a/c system is performing
• If your smoke detectors are working properly
• If you have any peeling paint or rot on the outside of your home
• If your gutters are clogged
• If your shingles are worn or damaged
• If your light bulbs are working
• A free copy of the Home Maintenance book for Dummies

This question comes up fairly often.

Here’s 4 things to think about:

1) If it’s new to you and 50+ years old, wait at least 12 months after moving in.

This lets you see how it does through all 4 seasons so you know what to expect before covering up your foundation walls.

2) Take pictures of your foundation walls.

These before pictures let you prove you aren’t trying to hide anything behind the drywall when you sell the home.

3) Slope the dirt away from your foundation and extend any short downspouts at least 6 feet away.

This reduces the chances of future moisture penetration by about 90%.

4) As an extra precaution, add a sump pump with a battery back-up system.

This will remove water from under the foundation and keep it out of your basement, even if you lose power.

Yes.

It’s called a 5-point Major-Items inspection and it covers the capex items of a residential home or side-to-side duplex.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long and includes an online digital report with photos and is delivered the same day.

But ensure all the utilities are on and the pilots lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the the main valve must be open and water flowing through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

Finally, this inspection falls outside professional inspection standards so you won’t find this offered by most home inspectors.

As an investor who operates in dollars and cents, a roof gets replaced only when it must.

But, here are the things to consider:

1) Strength of the roof structure.

Can the rafters bear the weight of another layer of shingles? Is the roof structure made with 2×4 or 2×6 rafters? If it’s 2×4’s, are there strongbacks installed or wood trusses?

Prepare ahead of time so you’re not dealing with damage, money, and headaches later.

2) Condition of the bottom layer of shingles.

If the first layer of shingles is REALLY worn out, you won’t want to put another layer of shingles on top. It’ll accelerate the wear and tear so just tear them off.

3) Type of shingle material on the bottom layer.

If the first layer is wood shingle, you won’t want to put an asphalt shingle on top. If you ever sell the home, this may become a problem with your buyer’s homeowner’s insurance company.

4) Number of layers already installed.

Depending on the area of the home, you may not be able to add a second layer (a few allow up to 3 layers). Again, make sure your repairs and upgrades don’t become a bottleneck in the future sale of the home.

Radon gas is a naturally occurring radioactive gas created from the depletion of Uranium in our soil.

Radon levels in the soil outside your home range from a few hundred to several thousand pCi/L (picocuries per liter).

It is the leading cause of non-smoking lung cancer in the country. And because it causes lung cancer, the EPA established that every pCi/L of Radon gas in your home has the same cancer causing effects as smoking 1 cigarette per day.

The EPA decided that 4 pCi/L as the highest acceptable level in a home and I’ve seen levels up to 105.3.

So if the radon level in the home is 10 pCi/L, it’s like you’re smoking 10 cigarettes a day. Every single day. 7 days a week.

That means you could have the healthiest lifestyle in the world and still get sick if you’re living with high Radon.

And if you smoke, your risk is even greater.

Yes, if your home sits on the ground and you live in an area that has Radon gas.

For 2 reasons:

1) You believe it’s a health concern.

You can see we have historically high levels all over the Kansas City area (both Kansas and Missouri).

2) You believe it’s a financial concern.

It’s cheaper to test than to mitigate. So if you decide NOT to test for Radon gas when you buy your home, you’ll be crossing your fingers and hoping your buyers don’t test when you sell – or it comes back low.

Radon gas is measured in pCi/L (picocurie per liter).

Named after Marie Curie who got so close to her work she had to be buried in a coffin lined with lead.

If your Radon level comes back above 4.0 pCi/L, then the EPA protocol is to have a Radon mitigation system professionally installed. nThe system is a permanent solution to the problem and will continuously keep Radon levels within a safe range.

A mitigation system is commonly corrected using a method called “sub-slab depressurization” or “sub-slab suction”.

It works by drilling a 6″ hole in the foundation floor (aka suction point) then inserting A PVC pipe into the hole.

A suction fan is attached and the pipe is extended outside the home.

The fan then draws the radon gas from beneath the home and vents it to the atmosphere.n

A radon mitigation system can cost between $695 – $2500 and the fan lasts roughly 10 years of continuous, 24- hour use.

Sub-slab suction systems are virtually maintenance free.

Simply check the manometer (tube with red liquid) periodically. The liquid level should NOT be level with each other.

No.

You can’t see it, smell it, or taste it.

In fact, your next door neighbor can have high levels and your home can be low and vice versa.

Radon gas is a Class A Carcinogen and has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States.

Second only to cigarette smoking, and it is said to be responsible for an estimated 20,000 deaths annually.

Yes.

The age of a home is not a predictive Radon factor. Newer homes may still have high levels (and in fact, may have higher levels) since older homes are draftier and today’s new construction homes are built tighter than in the past.

This makes it less likely the gas will escape through cracks and drafts in the home.

Yes.

Since Radon comes from our soil, it breaches the home through your crawlspace floor drain, sump pit, foundation cracks, sinks, showers, and all other building envelope penetrations. n

The amount of radon that escapes from the soil and enters the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and suction within the house.

Yes. For the same reasons listed above.

If it’s sitting on the ground, radon gas enters the home.

Because the gas has infinite room to dissipate.

In other words, there’s too much room outside to get sick.

No.

The levels of Radon gas is limited to the ground the home is sitting on and varies from area to area.

As a matter of fact, I remember a story of 2 homes next door to each other being tested for Radon at the same time. One home came back 2.2 pCi/L and the other came back at 22 pCi/L.

Somewhere between $20 and $125.

The $20 test is a DIY at-home version consisting of two charcoal canisters, which you hang side-by-side from the ceiling of the lowest livable space in your home and leave for one year.

Then, you send it to the lab, and they will email you the results.

$125 is for an electronic 48-hour radon test for real estate transactions. They’re equipped with internal sensors that prevent tampering by measuring conditions like:

1. Temperature
2. Humidity
3. Barometric Pressure
4. Tilt

If the monitor is tampered with, the results become null and void, and the area must be re-tested.

You can learn about Radon gas at the EPA Radon website or on our website.

Not if the exterior doors will be propped open for long periods of time.

If the radon monitor is dropped off during the inspection and they start moving out the next day, they may not only disturb the monitor, but they might prop open outside doors.

This violates closed-home conditions which states all exterior doors and windows must stay closed for the duration of the test.

Otherwise, the results may become contaminated and the home will have to be retested.

It’s better to drop off the Radon monitor BEFORE the home inspection so that you get the Radon results back before they start moving out.

That depends on you.

Most sellers DON’T because if the result comes back high, they’re pretty much obligated to deal with it.

But, some home sellers do test. It just depends on how much information they want to know and how eager they are to find potential problems with the home.

Neither way is right or wrong.

Probably not.

New home builders treat the property for termites at the time of construction.

But, if your loan program requires a termite letter as a part of your loan package, you’ll still need to get one.

Sure.

Termites can pop up at any time so this is a smart thing to do.

If you find termites (or any other wood-destroying insect) in or around your home, call a professional pest control company so they can treat the area before they cause structural damage.

If you live in a cold winter climate, this is best done during the spring and summer months, when they are more active and easier to find.

Another thing to remember is that inspection methods vary depending on the type of wood-destroying insects in your area.

This ranges from Dry wood termites to Formosan or Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants (or even the Carpenter Bees) to Powder Post Beetles.

Lastly, there are places where you can find a combination of these guys. Like Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants together.

They each have different inspection methods, and each leaves behind different clues.

These pointers are general in nature and don’t address a specific type of wood-destroying insect (WDI) or wood-destroying organism (WDO).

Whew! OK, let’s get going…

First, grab a flashlight and a long screwdriver. These are your tools.

Your screwdriver is for tapping on wood and stabbing any areas you might think have termites. If you also have a crawlspace or cellar you may want to put on your weekend work clothes because you’ll end up dirty before you’re done.

Next, start outside of the home.

Disturb any mulch and wood in contact with the soil as you walk around your home.

Get behind any bushes and inspect your foundation wall. Look for mud tubes, blistered wood, and pellets.

Look at your garage door frame for mud tubes and blistered wood. Open and check inside any bait traps around the perimeter of your yard.

Inside your home, start at the front door and check the walls, ceiling, baseboards, and windows. Look for termite wings, bodies, frass (piles of sawdust), mud, blistered wood, etc.

Open all exterior doors and check for wood decay at the bottom of doors and door frames.n

In the garage, walk around the perimeter looking closely at the concrete walls, garage door frame, and expansion joints for mud tubes.

Go into the attic and check gable vents for swarmer wings, pellets, and emergence holes.

If you have a basement or crawlspace, start at the ceiling and work your way down to the floor.

Look at the rim joist, subfloor, floor joists, main beam, and support posts.

Pay attention to areas of rot and moisture damage and areas between sistered joists.

Expect this to take about 1 hour to perform.

You’ll want to do this every year, especially if you live in an older, mature area.

No.

If you can see the mold there is no need to test. Fix the source, remove the mold, and repair the damage. Knowing what kind of mold you have does not eliminate the need to remove the moldy areas.

There are really only 3 situations when a mold test is necessary:

1. You get sick inside your home with flu-like symptoms and don’t know why

2. After a mold remediation and cleanup to make sure it’s all gone

3. The home you’re buying smells damp and musty, but you don’t see any mold (it might be hiding above ceilings and inside walls)

When it’s a small area.

In most cases, if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch) you can handle the job yourself. But, if you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting.

If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the EPA’s A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home. n

If you hire someone to do the cleanup, make sure they have experience cleaning up mold.

Inexperience and recklessness can do as much harm as good if mold spores get spread throughout the home (especially if your furnace or air conditioner is running). Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations provided in the EPA’s guide.

If you think there’s mold in your ductwork, read the EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before trying to clean it.

Again, be sure NOT to run the HVAC system because this will spread the mold all over the house.

Finally, if the water and/or mold damage was caused by raw sewage or other contaminated water, don’t try to do it yourself. Call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contamination.

No.

Federally Regulated protocols for mold inspections, mold testing, mold sampling, and mold remediation have not yet been established by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, OSHA or any other federal agency.

Do your due diligence when choosing a mold mitigation company and don’t be surprised if questionable-looking characters show up at your door.

There are 2 types:

1. Complete: The complete mold inspection is similar to a home inspection in its scope, but is specifically searching the home for mold or conditions which could lead to mold.

The complete mold inspection also involves moisture, temperature, and humidity measurements along with at least 4 mold samples (2 outside and 2 inside)

2. Limited: This is a mold inspection limited to a specific area of the home. It’s the test most normally performed when we can see existing mold and need to test for it.

The limited mold inspection involves at least 2 mold samples for the area of concern.

Between $250-$725

A complete mold inspection is $225 for the inspection and $125 per sample.

So a Complete mold inspection with 4 mold samples would cost $225 + $500 = $725.

A limited mold inspection will usually cost $125 per sample or a minimum of $250.

Get a mold inspection.

The mold inspector will check your home inside and out for conditions that could lead to mold and any areas where mold currently exists.

The inspector will also take mold samples to ensure there are no concealed elevated moisture levels within your home.

A mold testing company tests for mold.

A mold remediation company removes the mold and all affected areas.

Not necessarily. Get bids for repair and removal.

If the numbers still work after you’ve added them up, it could still be a sound investment.

Most mold testing results have a 48-hour turn-around time.

If they can fit you into their schedule, you still have time to get the results back before your inspection period ends.

Chinese Drywall refers to tainted drywall imported from China which corrodes copper and metal surfaces, often gives off a foul odor, and can make you sick.

There have been a few reports that homes built by large, national builders (like Pulte Homes) may have this Chinese drywall installed, leaving some room for concern.

How would you know if you’re buying a home with this drywall?

1. Does the home smell like rotten eggs or ammonia?

2. Is it more noticeable when entering your home and then seems to dissipate?

3. Chinese drywall corrodes electrical wiring. Check the electrical receptacles in your walls to see if the wires are blackened by pulling off an outlet cover or switch plate and looking inside.n

Chinese drywall is also friable, which means very small particles can easily dislodge and get into our lungs.

This is why the toxic particulates often remain even after Chinese drywall is removed from your home.

Yes, it’s called an energy audit.

A home energy audit is the first step in assessing how much energy your home consumes and evaluating what measures you can take to make it more energy efficient.

An audit will show you problem areas that can save you big bucks if corrected.

During the audit, it will become possible to pinpoint where your house is losing energy and determine the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems. It may also show you ways to conserve hot water and electricity.n

You can perform a simple energy audit yourself or have a professional energy auditor perform a more thorough audit.

An energy audit is a good idea for older homes (30+ years) and any home that could benefit from a little more efficiency from its systems and components.

The Green Home Guide.

It has excellent information about the 9 Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient.

This is something that will vary by area and you’ll also want to shop for prices since they do vary, but for the most part, the cost for a complete home energy efficiency audit will be in the ballpark of $400.

A home inspector.

A contractor is a specialist in one specific area while a home inspector is trained for this purpose. They will tell you what kind of shape the entire home is in.

Yes.

A home energy audit may be helpful. Older homes lose energy as they age, including around doors, windows, the attic, walls, appliances, and more.

Yes.

It’s common for a homeowner to reduce their utility bill up to 30% after implementing the improvements advised by the audit (almost $500 per year).

A home energy audit varies from a Home Maintenance Checkup because it focuses only on energy items. n

Things like:

• How much your home costs to operate
• Its indoor air quality
• The efficiency of the heating and cooling systems
• Energy loss of the building envelope (inside the “skin” of the home)
• It can even include an infrared camera to uncover invisible energy loss
• And what can be done to save energy and protect your environment

You have a few good ones.

1) Our 5-Point Major-Items inspection.

This bare-bones inspection checks the expensive areas of a home so you can quickly and with relatively little investment determine whether it’s a money pit or your dream home in disguise.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long, includes an online digital report with photos, and is delivered the same day.

But be sure all the utilities are on and the pilots are lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the main valve must be open, and water must flow through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

This meaty home inspection falls outside professional standards, so most home inspectors do not offer it.

2) Our 30-Min. Homebuyer Inspection Checklist.

This checklist is our 5-Point Major-Items inspection i print.

It’s a full-color .pdf that walks you through each of the 5 major areas, showing you where to look, what to look for, and whether it should be a major concern.

You can find this for sale on our website.

3) Our UpReach^™ Free Home Inspection Program

If you’re a deserving family with an underdog story and sacrificed and saved to afford a home, but can’t afford a quality home inspection, this program is for you.

Instead of forcing you to use someone cheap, new, or just plain bad, once a month we we give away one of our Gold Packages to the first lucky family that submits a request. That’s a real investment of $865 you get for free.

Not everyone qualifies, but if you think you do, click this link and fill out the form. We’ll contact you with our decision.

That’s a hard question to answer because there’s alot I don’t know about you or your situation.

For example,

1. What is the final purchase price of the house?
2. How much are any repairs going to cost?
3. What are comparable homes selling for?
4. How long am I going to be in the home?

These are about numbers.

But there are still personal criteria for your family:

1. Does it fit my circumstances?
2. Is it close to work?
3. Is it in my budget?
4. Are there enough bedrooms and bathrooms?
5. Can I afford the maintenance? (the inspection helps here)
6. Do I have the budget for repairs? (the inspection helps here, too)

The home inspection will help you understand what kind of condition the home is in so you can decide if it works for you and your family.

Always.

Buying a home is a big decision. You’re biting off alot of responsibility with maintenance, repairs, dues, payments, and all the details in between.

But remember, you’re paying good money for a trained professional to find issues with the home. Disturbing or distracting them while they work slows them down, disrupts their focus, and increases the chance they miss something so ask your questions and express concerns BEFORE the inspection and hole them until the END.

Let your home inspector a thorough home inspection so you’re not suffering through unwelcome surprises after you move in.

This is another question I can’t really answer for you.

Your circumstances and tastes are different.

Besides, the real question being asked is, “Did you find anything that would scare you away?”

I can answer that particular question as long as you’re willing to agree that there are 5 major areas in a home:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof
4. Electrical system
5. HVAC system

Those are the areas that produce 80% of all deal-killing defects and affect most buying decisions.

Yes.

This is important.

Your home is an engineering feat full of systems, components, and areas you’re now responsible for it.

1. Have questions. Write them down and ask them before the inspection or at the end.

2. Attend the inspection, but don’t distract the inspector while he’s working.

Instead, tour the home, take measurements, shadow the inspector, write down questions, and be there for the end. That’s the time to ask questions because that’s when he will have the answers.

Communication.

I remember when I first started in 2003.

I had just left NYC and was ready for something new.

When I arrived in Kansas City, I stumbled onto home inspections. It sounded fun, but I knew nothing about houses.

So I remember thinking, “How is it possible to check everything?”

I mean, there are just so many parts and pieces and systems and stuff.

And this is how alot of people feel. But, like anything else, it just takes practice. Lots of practice. In fact, years of practice.

So the better the home inspector, the better their understanding of the home, the simpler they communicate, the better you understand, and the better results you get when buying or negotiating the home.

The plumbing system.

Why? For 4 reasons:

1. Water leaks.

A home is 5 times more likely to incur water damage than fire damage. When a home becomes vacant and gets winterized (the drain lines are flushed and filled with anti-freeze), water and drain lines stop being used.

So, when the water is turned back on and the supply and drain lines are hit with the sudden surge of water pressure, the dry connections and split water lines spring a leak.

2. Cost to repair.

Water heater leakage, freezing pipes, broken washer hoses, sewer line trouble, and toilet overflows are the second most frequent insurance claim and cost more than $7B a year to fix.

3. Hidden leaks.

When a home is vacant, there’s sometimes no information about its history. That’s why it’s important to know how to operate a home and find those hidden problems before you close.

4. Mold growth.

This is the biggest reason the plumbing system is so important. Dark, humid conditions inside the home create the perfect environment for mold, which happens alot in unoccupied homes.

Once mold takes hold, you need to fix the source and repair the damage it causes.

Where do most plumbing leaks come from?

According to the insurance company Safeco:

• 30 percent were due to appliance failure

• 62 percent were due to faulty plumbing

• 8 percent were due to weather

Make sure all the utilities are turned on and the pilots are lit.

1. The gas.

For operating the water heater, furnace, and oven (if installed). The home inspector will not light pilots so make sure all pilots are lit on all appliances at least 24 hours before the inspection starts.

Because of the moving parts involved, turning on gas is often the most difficult utility to turn on.

2. The water.

Because we run water through the drain lines and check for leaks.

When a home is vacant we run the water for the duration of the inspection to make sure there are no unwelcome plumbing problems after you move in.

This is the 2nd most difficult utility to get turned on.

3. The electricity.

We need to check all electrical components and ensure they’re working properly. This includes the A/C system.

This is the easiest utility to get turned on.

Look at 6 things:

Above all else, try to get a referral from someone you trust. There’s nothing better than first-hand experience from a friend or family member.

If not, make sure:

1. To read their online reviews
2. The inspector is a full-time professional
3. The inspector belongs to a professional organization like ASHI^™ or Inter NACHI^®.
4. You understand what they’re inspecting
5. The inspector carries Errors & Omissions and General Liability insurance (to protect you and them if the inspector misses something).
6. They’re responsive, and you get along with them

This is a good, basic question. Many home buyers (and even agents) don’t exactly know what a home inspector does. So let me clear the smoke.

There are 2 aspects to every home inspection:

1st – A home inspection is a visual, non-intrusive, and fair effort to discover the real material condition of the home during the time and day the inspection takes place.

2nd – A home inspection isn’t really about the home inspector telling you what’s wrong with the home more than it is a discovery session for you to make sure you understand what you’re buying so that you can decide if it falls within your expectations and is a good fit for your situation.

You see, as a professional home inspector my job is to make sure I align the reality of the home’s condition with your expectations. If I can successfully do that, then I’ve done my job.

And that’s really it. It’s limited in scope by what can be seen and tested, which particularly applies to vacant homes where there is no past information so the inspector is forced to play detective and do the best they can during the short period of time that they’re there.

If time permits, you should be encouraged to take advantage of this rare opportunity to follow a professional around your home who will invite your questions, concerns, and impart key information and advice that will certainly help you buy your home with confidence.

At the very least, it should involve the inspection of the:

1. Landscaping
Grading and drainage	Driveways
Walkways	Porches
Decks	Patios
Walkouts	Terraces

2. Exterior
Retaining walls	Foundation
Siding, flashing, and trim	Chimneys
Windows	Window wells
Exterior doors	Exterior lighting
Outlets and switches	Ceiling fans

3. Cooling System
A/C or heat pump?	Condenser unit
Refrigerant lines	Evaporator unit
Air distribution system	Operating controls

4. Roof
Gutters and downspouts	Soffits and fascias
Roof covering	Roof ventilation
Flashings	Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations

5. Carport
Floor	Walls
Guardrail	Ceiling
Lighting	Circuit wires
Outlets	Access doors

6. Attic
Roof structure	Insulation
Attic access	Ventilation, fans, and exhaust
Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations	Circuit wiring

7. All Rooms
Floor	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Closet and door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Heat source	Smoke detector

8. Bathrooms
Functional flow	Floors
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Doors
Lighting	Ceiling fan
All outlets and switches	Exhaust fan
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drains	Vanity, cabinets, and countertops
Pantry	Toilet
Tub and enclosure	Jetted tub and enclosure
Heat source

9. Floors/Hallways/Stairways/Loft
Floors	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Lighting	Ceiling fan
Attic fan	All outlets and switches
Closets and doors	Stairs and railings
Front door	Patio door
Smoke detectors	Heat source

10. Kitchen
Functional flow	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Door
Patio door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Cabinets and countertops
Pantry	Garbage disposal
Dishwasher	Stove/oven/cooktop
Range hood	Microwave
Refrigerator	Trash compactor
Heat source

11. Fireplaces and wood stoves
Fireplace or wood stove?	Front/mantle/hearth
Door/screen	Firebox
Damper control	Chimney and flue
Electric start function	Blower and fan
Gas valve

12. Garage
Roof	Exterior foundation
Exterior siding	Garage doors
Garage door openers	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Lighting
All outlets	Circuit wiring
Patio doors	Access door
Central heating	Central cooling
Space heating	Sink

13. Basement
Stairs and railing	Floor
Foundation and walls	Ceiling/sub-floor
Rim/floor joists	Columns, beams, and posts
Vents or windows	Walkout doors
Doors	Lighting
Ceiling fans	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Circuit wiring
Insulation	Heat source
Smoke detector

14. Laundry
Floor	Walls
Ceiling	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Lighting	All outlets and switches
Tub/faucet	Trap/drain
Washer/dryer	Heat source
Smoke detector

15. Central heating
Energy source	Heating equipment
Operating controls	Safety controls
Chimneys, flues, and vents	Heat distribution system
Heat source in each living space	Smoke/CO detector in space
Furnace enclosure

16. Plumbing
Water main supply	Water main shutoff valve
Hose bibs	Distribution piping
Interior drains, waste, and vents	Fuel distribution system
Water heater	Sump pumps

17. Electrical
Service entrance	Distribution panel
Sub-panel	Grounding
Circuit wiring

18. Fire safety

19. Appliances (that stay with home)

You should be present and actively involved in what will surely become an on-site education on the finer points of your new home.

At its best, your inspection will see you actively participate and involved in what will become an on-site educational course on the finer points of your home.

This is an important question because it makes sure you understand the limitations of a home inspection and will not be disappointed later.

In fact, a few things are excluded from a home inspection, and some might not get inspected or tested because the inspector cannot access them.

These are the most common items that are normally excluded from a home inspection:

1. A home’s market value
2. A home’s property lines
3. Cosmetic items
4. Wear-and-tear items (carpet, holes in walls, scratches, paint, knobs, etc.)
5. Swimming pools
6. Hot tubs
7. Sprinkler systems
8. Telephone lines
9. Fences
10. Cable lines
11. Surround sound systems
12. Sewer lines
13. Insulation in walls
14. R-value of windows
15. Proper sizing of central heating unit
16. Proper sizing of central cooling unit
17. Proper sizing of water heater
18. Cost estimates for repairs

A specialized inspector can still inspect some of these items for an additional fee, but they all fall outside a normal home inspection.  

This is a list of areas you’ll want to make sure are open, unlocked, unblocked, and accessible BEFORE the inspection starts:

1. Crawlspace
2. Main electrical panels
3. Furnace panels
4. A/C condensers
5. Water heaters
6. Attic access panels
7. Detached garages
8. Closets
9. Roof

Most home inspectors will not move heavy personal items that are blocking their way because sellers can be pretty sensitive about their belongings.  

That’s why clutter, shelves, and storage items should be moved before the inspection starts.

For a complete list, here is the professional home inspector’s Standards of Practice.

Knowing this ahead of time can help you help the home inspector give you the best inspection possible.

For a lot of good reasons.

First, you need to know what kind of condition your home is in (it’s the things we can’t see that scare us). This is especially true if the home has been vacant for any period of time.

Second, it would be outrageously expensive to call out a licensed professional to evaluate the condition of every single system and component in a home. For example, let’s say we have the hourly rates of certified professionals:

• Electrician = $95/hour
• HVAC technician = $85/hour
• Roofer = $85/hour
• Foundation specialist = $80/hour
• Plumber = $95/hour
• A good handyman for everything else = $100/hour

This way, a 2-hour inspection of every component in a home would easily cost over $890 for the standard-sized home (approx. 1,500 ft²) and would also be a nightmare coordinating all of them to show up and then deliver their findings during your inspection period.

Third, you may run into “Rush Charges” of 20% or more by these technicians because these professionals have to squeeze you into their busy schedule during your short inspection period.

Fourth, these technicians don’t provide professional inspection reports for their findings, which your lender requires.

Fifth, though these are technical professionals, trained in their field to troubleshoot and repair.  They are not trained to evaluate and troubleshoot a whole home.

Lastly, because no house is perfect.

There is always something to be found in every home, which might lead to problems later.

No. A house cannot fail a home inspection.

This is a common misconception. A home can only fail a city code inspection (if your area has building codes) when your home was first built or when any changes are made to the home that require a building permit to be issued to the licensed contractor that is doing the work. This ensures the work is done correctly by licensed professionals.

On the contrary, a professional home inspection is for your benefit. You can use the information to negotiate repairs with the seller, budget for repairs, or you can ignore it all and chuck the report in the trash. It’s all up to you.

These are non-profit governing bodies for the home inspection industry that decided long ago how inspectors should behave.

It includes a code of ethics, continuing education requirements, and the minimum number of items that must inspected in every home (about 430+ items).

So, just like building codes that dictate bare minimum requirements to build a safe house, InterNACHI^® and ASHI^™ dictate bare minimum requirements that a home inspector must abide by in order to be considered professional.

Also, since both organizations essentially perform the same function, a home inspector does not need to belong to more than one (although some states don’t even require a home inspector to belong to either).

So what does this mean to you as a home buyer?

You can find comfort in knowing you can expect a minimum level of consistency regardless of who you choose to work with. But with thousands of items that can break and leak in and around a home, you’ll always want more than that.

Here’s what ASHI^™ and InterNACHI^® are not:

1. They aren’t an insurance company to protect you if a home inspector misses something.

2. They aren’t a group that could punish a home inspector or kick them out of the home inspection industry for acting unethically or unprofessionally (there are exceptions that involve revoking their license, but this is not common).

Not at all.

That’s alot like saying all auto mechanics, hairdressers, and attorneys are all the same.

And just like those professions, it takes years to master the craft. So less experienced operators won’t have the same well of knowledge, experience, and efficiency as someone with 20 years and tens of thousands of inspections behind them.

This keeps them from seeing the bigger picture so their interpretations of outcomes may be different than someone who has seen a particular defect and its various causes hundreds of times before.

This is also why home inspections vary in price.

Most Inspections take between 2 to 3 hours.

The things that affect the time will be inspector experience along with size, age, and condition. A good inspector will invite you to attend, but will not allow themselves to be distracted by conversation. You should follow them and observe if you want, but they’re there with a single purpose – to make sure you know what you’re buying and have no unwelcome surprises after you move in.

Conversations can happen in the beginning and the end, but in the middle you should let them earn their fee.

No. And for 2 reasons:

1st – Their knowledge is specific and specialized. If you hire the right home inspector, you’re hiring an experienced professional who knows a house inside and out. They’ll not only study the mechanical and structural systems, but also to check to make sure they’re working together and identify areas that need to be monitored, repaired, or replaced.

Think of a home inspector as your family doctor. A person doesn’t go straight to a brain surgeon when they have a headache; it’s just too expensive and too specialized. You visit your family doctor who will diagnose the problem and then, if necessary, send you to the specialist. That’s how the professional engineer and all other specialists (HVAC, foundation, electrician, roofing, plumbing, etc.) fit into the scope of the inspection process. Occasionally, a home inspector may identify the need for a more detailed analysis of one or more of the home’s systems or structures and in these cases, the appropriate professional will be recommended.

2nd – You need someone to professionally and objectively communicate their findings. The importance of this skill cannot be overemphasized. This is what really distinguishes the abilities of a professional home inspector from a professional engineer. As a basic necessity, a home inspector is continually educated and experienced in not only verbal communication, but in written communication. By trade, a professional engineer doesn’t have the need to be careful with the wording of their findings while a professional home inspector fully understands their role in the sales process and is equipped with both the communication skills and home inspection reporting tools to deliver a timely, thorough, careful, and appropriate ‘big picture’ analysis of the home.

As a matter of fact, hiring a professional engineer on your own can be a disappointing experience. In many states a licensed engineer can perform a home inspection without being certified. The term ‘professional engineer’ or ‘PE’ does not mean the individual has training or experience conducting home inspections. Therefore, hiring a professional engineer to complete a home inspection will likely cost you more money and not deliver the results you are looking for (or deserve).

No.

No home inspection company will ever be able to predict or anticipate every repair or maintenance item encountered while owning a home.

The purchase and ownership of any home brings ongoing maintenance and a certain amount of risk and unfortunately things sometimes go wrong after the inspection. It can’t be avoided or predicted. Annually, you can expect to spend about 1% of your home’s value on maintenance, but that formula along with the home inspection report is the closest any home inspector can come to predicting future costs and repairs.

Also, a home inspection does not represent an insurance policy. All it signifies is the material condition of your home during the time of the inspection. For detailed information on a home warranty, contact your closest real estate professional.

As a matter of fact, I do.

I have some super cool resources designed to help you every step of the way…and beyond. These useful checklists help buyers and sellers through the home-buying process.

1. The Ultimate House Hunting Checklist—From the neighborhood to the home, navigate your house hunting by comparing each home using 23 important criteria that help you remember what matters most. It’s free to use.

2. The 30-Min. DIY Home Inspection Checklist – Put my experience in your hands as you walk through each home and I show you how to check the 5 major areas in every home in about 30 min.

This will not replace a home inspection, but it will reduce the chance that you’ll call a home inspector over major defects you could’ve found yourself.

You’ll find it for sale on our website for $18.99.

3. Home Maintenance Schedules—You just had it inspected; now keep it protected. These maintenance schedules provide you with ongoing and seasonal maintenance items to ensure your home stays in tip-top shape for as long as you own it. Free – just click the link.

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

4. Building Material Life Span Guide—This Guide is free with every home inspection. It helps you understand how much life is left on your roof, water heater, furnace, and more than 300 other items. It’s a valuable resource as your home grows and ages. And it’s only available here.

5. Home Remodeling Cost Estimates Guide—This is also free with every home inspection. It is a helpful tool to help you prepare for the cost of repair or upgrades on over 500 items. Use it to help you figure out the cost of upgrading the countertops or finishing your basement. And it’s only available here.

Payment for home inspections is almost always due at the end of the inspection.

Your inspector should accept personal checks, cash, money orders, cashier’s checks, and credit cards.

If you are unable to attend the inspection, you will likely be expected to pay through credit card or e-check, mail the check at the time of scheduling, or have your representative or agent provide payment at the time of the inspection.

Also, a paid invoice should be included with your home inspection report, and the report will probably NOT be released until payment is made unless arrangements have been made in advance.

This is discouraged in the industry.

Because there are so many things that can go wrong between the inspection and closing. So if you ask for payment to be made at closing and don’t buy the home, they’ll have little recourse to collect for services on a home you don’t own.

So if it’s unavoidable and there is no other option then a credit card number is usually given or a check is written to the inspector at the time of inspection with the understanding that if no closing occurs the credit card will be run or the check will be deposited.

Between $300-$2000.

But it depends on the inspection company and several other variables:

1. The square footage
2. The age
3. The sale price
4. Crawlspace
5. Weekend or evening
6. Or an hourly rate

Then there are other inspections:

1. Termite inspection
2. Radon test
3. Sewer scope inspection
4. Mold testing
5. Structural

One may use square footage, while another uses both square footage and age to determine their price. One may charge if the home has a crawlspace and another may not. And another may charge for a weekend inspection and another might charge a flat rate of $100 per hour with a 3 hour minimum.

As you can see, it depends. And every inspector has their own reasons for doing it the way they do.

But you’re really paying for the inspector’s experience, efficiency, and results, so the greater the certainty and clarity, the higher the price.

That said, don’t choose a cheap inspector. The insight and cost savings you get from a good home inspection are very real and will always save you money, time, and headaches later.

Need? No. Highly encouraged? Definitely.

It’s always a great idea to be there, but it’s not critical. You can always discuss findings over the phone and your inspector will always be available for any questions later.

If you can’t be there for the whole thing, try to make it at the end. That’s the most important time because your inspector will go over the findings and have the answers to your questions. This should only take about 15 minutes.

The same day.

This isn’t true for all home inspectors and sometimes unexpected surprises get in the way with us, but it’s a promise we keep 99.9% of the time.

It will be emailed to you.

On rare occasion, an inspector will hand write their report, but 99% deliver them electronically either as a pdf attachment or HTML report.

Don’t have an email? You can for the inspection or give us the email of someone you trust. If that’s not an option, your real estate agent can print it out for you. As a last resort, your inspector can print it out for you.

For a pre-owned home you should schedule your home inspection as soon as your offer is accepted.

You usually have between seven and fourteen days after your sales contract is signed to get a home inspection. The sooner you can get the home inspected, the more time you’ll have to deal with any unexpected issues that come up afterward.

If you’re buying a new construction home, you should schedule your home inspection after all the work is complete but BEFORE your builder walkthrough. This lets you have the report while you’re walking through the home with the builder.

Yes.

But keep in mind that distractions diminish the quality of your home inspection.

So feel free to follow your inspector, but avoid having conversations that will keep him from doing his work.

In fact, try to keep all conversations out of his earshot so he can concentrate.

It’s best to limit conversations to the beginning and end of the home inspection.

Yes.

But remember that the sole purpose of a home inspection is to find defects in your new home.

It’s not a time to grill your inspector about maintenance and repairs or issues you are having in your current home. He’s trying to stay focused to connect the dots and uncover the hidden story the home has to tell. Distracting them is counterproductive.

You’re spending several hundred (sometimes thousands) of dollars for a professional to do one thing. Let them do it.

If you have pressing questions, ask them before the inspection or write them down and ask them at the end. That’s when they’ll have the answers.

No. Not if you take your home seriously.

And the answer is obvious. They don’t know what they’re doing. This is probably the 2nd biggest mistake many people make when buying a home (the 1st is not getting a home inspection in the first place).

Even if the person is in the trades, they’re don’t have the same critical eye and training as someone conditioned to uncover visible – and invisible – defects in and around a home (also see Q8 “Am I missing out on any expertise by not using a professional engineer?”).

In fact, we get what’s called an “inspector’s instinct” for problems. That instinct takes extensive training and experience to develop. That’s why many contractors and other trades professionals hire a professional home inspector to inspect their own homes when they make a purchase.n

If they trust us, you should, too.

Always, if it’s safe.

But did you know home inspectors are not required to walk on a roof?

That said, I’ve found it impossible to give a proper inspection without walking on a roof (hail damage is sometimes impossible to see from even 10 feet away), so I will always get up there (sometimes to my own detriment).

If I can’t, then I’ll try to get to the roof’s edge and take the best look I can.

When will I NOT walk on a roof?

When it’s clearly unsafe, or the shingles are too fragile:

1. Wood shingles
2. Tile or slate shingles
3. When the roof is too steep
4. When the roof has a steep slope and it’s raining
5. After the rain has stopped, but the roof is still wet
6. It’s covered in snow
7. It’s covered in ice
8. It’s covered in moss (this stuff is slick!)
9. There’s a serious obstruction like a tree or power line blocking the way.

These conditions are not common, but they do happen, and it’s important to understand the limitations so you don’t have disappointment or unmet expectations later.

So now you may be thinking, “Will the inspector come back later to re-inspect the roof?”

The answer to that question is in Q47.

Great question.

I always try to walk a roof, even in ice and snow. And even though a home inspector is not required to walk on the roof, it’s the best way to determine its true condition.

But, you have a few options:

1. If you have time in your inspection period, I’d wait. The best time to inspect a home is the day after it rains. This lets me see if the foundation leaks after the water has time to soak into the ground and put both moisture and pressure against the foundation wall.

2. If time doesn’t allow or your schedule keeps you from attending another day, we should move forward with the inspection. If I can walk it, I will. If not, I can still get up to the roof edge and get inside the attic to get a complete picture of the roof structure.

3. I can come back another day to inspect the roof, but there is an additional fee.

No.

When the outside air temperature has been less than 60 degrees within 24 hours of the inspection the air conditioning system cannot be tested.

This is not just a limitation to a home inspection. Most HVAC technicians will not test a/c systems when it’s cold outside, either.

The reason? To put it plainly the refrigerant that runs through the a/c system can harden. If the system is operated after this happens, it could cause damage.

This is why many home warranty companies recognize include a cold weather clause in their contract.

This protects you when you buy a home in cold weather in case the a/c system does not work when you try to use it in the spring.

To be honest, this question is too big for this guide, but we cover it in our blog post, Kansas City foundation types—The Complete Breakdown.

Many types of cracks appear not only in the foundation but also in the walls, ceilings, and floors.

But I’ll touch on the types of cracks that give my clients the biggest scares.

Most of the time, they worry about foundation cracks.

There are 3 different types of foundation cracks:

1. Shrinkage cracks—These are hairline cracks that occur due to the normal drying and shrinkage of the concrete.

In fact, there are 2 promises they make in the concrete business:

1) It will get hard

2) It will crack.

90% of the time, these hairline cracks are harmless. They will be random and can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal.

2. Settlement cracks—These are caused by movement in the soil around your home. They can be major concerns, particularly if they go all the way through the foundation or are greater than ¼”.

These are almost always vertical or diagonal and will start at the floor and move upward.

3. Hydrostatic (Horizontal) Cracks—When people talk about bad foundation cracks, this is it. These are caused when the soil pushes the foundation wall inward and often require a support system to keep the cracking from getting worse.

Home inspectors are trained to evaluate and report on all types of cracks. If you have any questions about the type of crack you have or how serious it is, never hesitate to ask your inspector.

It depends on the type of shingle and where it is.

This question is answered in depth in our blog post on KC area roof types and in our Building Materials Lifespan Guide, which you can get for free after a home inspection.

This was the standard method of wiring homes in North America between 1875 and 1930.

It consists of copper wires run through ceramic knobs and tubes and uses air to dissipate heat. This is why early homes were built without insulation in the walls or attic.

While not inherently unsafe, having knob-n-tube wiring in your home does present some safety issues, most of which come from the system becoming brittle with age, improper splicing into modern wires, and covering with insulation in attics and walls.

You also can’t safely use 3-prong outlets with knob-n-tube wiring. Here’s a graphic to show you what it looks like:

Today, many homeowner insurance companies have issues with these homes, so I always tell my clients to contact their insurance company to ensure coverage is available and reasonable.

Learn more about your home’s electrical service in our blog post.

No.

We don’t know if it’s off for a reason so it’s not safe to just start turning on gas valves to appliances even if we’ve been given permission (alot of times the person giving permission is not the same person who turned it off and does not really know why it was turned off or why it’s still turned off). This should be done before the inspection starts.

Only by flipping the switch to an electric start gas fireplace.

Lighting a fire will only impede the inspection process and prevent a home inspector from inspecting your fireplace and chimney.

As a side note, you should also remember that a home inspection is visual in nature and the inspector will only be able to take a look up the chimney with their flashlight.

Therefore, if you have any particular reason for concern, it’s always a good idea to call a professional chimney sweep to do an in-depth evaluation, which usually includes sending a light and camera up the chimney.

Contact your inspector and discuss all aspects of your home whenever you like.

Our service is a long-term investment for as long as you own the home.

Not necessarily.

Good real estate agents live and breathe in the world of real estate. They’ve been around for years and there’s a reason for it…they surround themselves professionals they can trust – including their home inspectors.

They are constantly bombarded with the advertisements from home inspection companies and other vendors; but with the help of other seasoned agents and their broker, they weed out the good ones from the bad.

Again, I’m talking about real estate agents who operate with high integrity. Someone who works off referral business and wins over their clients with service, experience, and knowledge. A good agent is one whose response to a home that has many things found wrong after the home inspection is:

“Good thing we got it inspected, now let’s go find that dream home.”

Am I also suggesting that if an agent only uses one inspector, that you should use them? Maybe.

That agent may be surrounding themselves with a “team” so that they can deliver a quality and consistent experience for their client. In order to do that everyone on their “team” plays a vital role.

Be just as selective about your home inspector as you were the agent you chose to work with and the home you decided to buy because you’re signing up with their team, too. Be picky, interview a few, and choose the best fit for you.

Yes.

Click here to view and download FHA requirements.

Yes.

Click here to view and download the checklist of VA requirements.

There are only a few core inspections but several special inspections.

For example, I offer 5 types of home inspections:

1. Whole-house inspection
2. Major-items inspection
3. Radon testing
4. Termite inspection
5. Sewer scope inspection

These 5 cover most needs.

But, there are some very particular inspections that are not so common:

1. Asbestos testing
2. Lead-based paint
3. Carbon Monoxide
4. Septic System Inspections
5. Well water inspections
6. New construction phase inspections
7. Stucco/EIFS inspections
8. Infrared testing
9. Swimming pool
10. Mold testing
11. Fireplace chimney

Yes.

Feel free to use this time to get as much done as possible. If you need to schedule the appraisal, the carpet guys, the painter, the granite guy, the decorator, and give your in-laws a tour, go right ahead (just remember Q19).

The only time that might not be a good idea is if a Radon test is being conducted. According to EPA Radon protocol, closed-house conditions much be kept the entire time the electronic monitor is in place. This means all windows and exterior doors must be kept closed (except for occasional use while coming and going).

Yes.

You’re paying for a single visit to the home. That’s why everything should be turn on, unlocked, unblocked, and lit before the inspection starts. There’s an opportunity cost when you take a spot reserved for a full inspection, that’s why there’s a fee.

No.

You can order a stake survey for about $450 that will tell you exactly where your property line is so you can determine if there are any encroachments or easements on your property.

No.

A home inspector can only tell you what kind of condition the home is in. The appraiser will tell you how many square feet your property is (along with its tax value).

Not usually.

Weekends are for family and I don’t work unless the situation is important. Newer and less experienced will often work weekends to get more experience, though.

At the time of this writing, there is no state licensing for home inspectors in either Kansas or Missouri.

At the time of this writing, home inspectors in neither Kansas nor Missouri must carry errors and omissions insurance.

Contact your home inspector.

There may come a time when you find something wrong with your house after you move in that makes you upset or disappointed with your home inspection.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

Intermittent or Concealed Problems: Some problems can only be discovered by living in a house. They can’t be discovered during the course of a few hours, even with a home inspection. Sometimes problems are hidden inside walls, under floors, and above ceilings. Some roofs and basements only leak under certain conditions. And some problems are hidden beneath carpet or behind furniture and storage items.

No Clues: These problems may have existed at the time of the inspection, but there were no clues as to their existence.

Home inspections are based on the past performance of the house. If there are no clues of a past problem, it’s not fair to think we should be able to predict a problem in the future.

Minor Things: Some say home inspectors are inconsistent because no two reports are the same. This is true. Sometimes small things get overlooked because they’re small, but the major defects should be found no matter what.

Contractor’s Advice: A common source of disappointment and bad advice comes from subcontractors. Contractor opinions often have nothing to do with home inspection guidelines. Don’t be surprised when three roofers all say the roof has a few more good years left after we say it needs to be replaced, and vice versa.

Last-Man-In Theory: While we often give the most prudent advice, alot of contractors avoid doing the work. This is because of the last-man-in theory.

This theory states that the last man to touch something gets the blame if something goes wrong later.

For example, if he’s the last person to work on the roof, he gets blamed if the roof leaks, regardless of the actual cause. So, instead of conceding to a small repair with greater liability, he pushes for the whole roof to be replaced for more money and a lower likelihood of callback.

Most Recent Advice Is Best: The last-man-in theory has more to it. It also suggests that homeowners tend to believe the last piece of expert advice they get, even if it contradicts previous advice.

As home inspectors, we’re often the first-man-in so our advice ultimately gets dismissed later.

Why Didn’t We See It? Last-man-in contractors have the luxury of saying, “I can’t believe you had this house inspected and the inspector didn’t find this problem.” There are several reasons for this:

Most don’t understand a home inspection and make claims that upset homebuyers based on opinion, instead of fact.

Conditions during The Inspection: It can be difficult to remember the conditions inside the house during the inspection. It’s easy to forget if it was snowing, the basement was packed with boxes, if the air conditioner was tested, etc. This means it’s impossible for 3rd party contractors to know what the circumstances were when the inspection was performed.

The Wisdom of Hindsight: When a problem manifests, it’s easy to use 20/20 hindsight. Anyone can say the basement gets wet when there is 2 feet of water on the floor. Predicting the problem is a different story.

A Longer Look: If we spent 30-minutes under the kitchen sink or 45 minutes disassembling the furnace, we’d find more problems. But, the inspection would take several days and cost thousands more.

The Family Doctor: We’re generalists, not specialists. And just like the difference between your family doctor and an oncologist, we must know as much as we can about every system in your home, but not everything about one.

For example, the heating contractor will have more heating expertise than we do. That’s because we have heating, plumbing, structural, electrical, etc. expertise.

An Invasive Look: Problems often become apparent when carpets or plaster are removed, fixtures or cabinets are pulled out, and so on. A home inspection is a visual examination. We don’t perform invasive or destructive tests.

Not Insurance: A professional home inspection protects you from buying a money pit, but it doesn’t mitigate all risk. That’s why a home inspection should NOT be considered an insurance policy. The premium you’d have to pay for a policy with no deductible, no limit and an indefinite policy period would be considerably more than the fee we charge.

This is a lot to take in and this discussion is not meant to make excuses for any items that are blatantly missed. In those cases, the inspector is responsible should take responsibility for the oversight.

However, inspectors are not psychic, cannot see through walls, and cannot predict problems in the future.

This means you owe it to yourself to understand the limitations of the inspection process before you order one.

Because quality is different. In fact, 60% of home inspectors drop out within 12 months so if you work with someone brand new, chances are they won’t be around this time next year.

The price includes their time, effort, training, experience, creativity, curiosity, commitment, intuition, efficiency, skill, and ability.

You get what you pay for.

From 1 month to 1 year.

A home is under constant stress both inside and out so things can change quickly. If you’re looking at a home that had an inspection performed more than a month ago – especially if it’s vacant – it’s still a good idea to get one for yourself.n

But, if you already live in the home and wanna use your inspection report to create a list of repairs, that’s what it’s for.

Not at all.

Homes break down and deteriorate. If there are potential hidden problems, they need to be inspected.

For example, a home seller can inspect their home before they put it on the market.

Real estate investors can inspect the homes they buy so they know their condition and can budget for repairs.

Apartment complexes and commercial properties need to be inspected, as well.

Yes. I’ve never encountered a professional home inspector who wasn’t.

To become certified, a professional home inspector must train and pass a series of exams that cover topics ranging from ethics to foundations to equipment.

This is why it’s a bad idea to use a friend or family member.

So if someone only performs commercial inspections, don’t use them. Commercial inspections are very different from a residential inspection.

Yes. $295.

Repairs should be performed by qualified professionals who provide a scope of work, contact information, proof of payment, and (hopefully) a warranty. And get all of this in your possession before closing.

So it shouldn’t be necessary for a generalist to come back and check the work of a specialist.

But, if you decide you still want a re-inspection, expect to pay $50 – $195. A little steep, but that’s the price you pay for taking a calendar slot normally reserved for a full inspection.

No.

And neither should any certified home inspector who charges for their service. That’s a conflict of interest and an ethics violation.

For as long as you own your home.

A home inspector should be available to answer any questions you have about your home for as long as you live there.

Understand the difference between Major, Maintenance, and Safety Items.

Most inspectors will summarize the inspection findings based on how important they are, such as:

1. Safety items
2. Major items
3. Maintenance items.

This lets you skip the maintenance items and go straight to the problems considered to be signifcant defects and safety issues.

If you’re negotiating with a seller, safety and major items are normally considered important issues, while maintenance items might get put on the ‘honey do’ list after you move in.

Yes.

It’s called the Homebuyer’s DIY 30-min. Home Inspection Checklist.

This checklist gets straight to the point and shows you not only what to look at, but also what to look for so you’re not wasting money inspecting a home that might scare you into changing your mind after it’s over. Now you’ll know BEFORE the inspection.

But let me be very clear: This basic checklist is NEITHER intended to—nor capable of—replacing an honest-to-goodness professional home inspection.

It’s only meant to help you recognize a few of the biggest and most common problems I find in the major areas that tend to change people’s minds so you’ll know ahead of time if you’ll be biting off more than you can chew.

Join our newsletter.

It will give you monthly maintenance and repair tips along with unique recommendations based on your particular home.

For basic seasonal tips, click one of the links below:

Fall maintenance schedule – Winter maintenance schedule – Spring maintenance schedule – Summer maintenance schedule

Our customers also get the Home Maintenance and Repair book for dummies.

Yes.

it’s called a Home Maintenance Checkup and it’s an inspection designed for fair weather because there’s too many things that can’t be tested or inspected when it’s cold.

It’s also extremely underutilized. Mainly because most homeowners and real estate agents don’t know about it. But it’s a great tool to help your home stay in tip top shape.

It’s designed to tell you (among other things):

• How much insulation you have in the attic (and how much you should have)
• How your windows are performing
• How your furnace is performing
• How your a/c system is performing
• If your smoke detectors are working properly
• If you have any peeling paint or rot on the outside of your home
• If your gutters are clogged
• If your shingles are worn or damaged
• If your light bulbs are working
• A free copy of the Home Maintenance book for Dummies

This question comes up fairly often.

Here’s 4 things to think about:

1) If it’s new to you and 50+ years old, wait at least 12 months after moving in.

This lets you see how it does through all 4 seasons so you know what to expect before covering up your foundation walls.

2) Take pictures of your foundation walls.

These before pictures let you prove you aren’t trying to hide anything behind the drywall when you sell the home.

3) Slope the dirt away from your foundation and extend any short downspouts at least 6 feet away.

This reduces the chances of future moisture penetration by about 90%.

4) As an extra precaution, add a sump pump with a battery back-up system.

This will remove water from under the foundation and keep it out of your basement, even if you lose power.

Yes.

It’s called a 5-point Major-Items inspection and it covers the capex items of a residential home or side-to-side duplex.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long and includes an online digital report with photos and is delivered the same day.

But ensure all the utilities are on and the pilots lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the the main valve must be open and water flowing through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

Finally, this inspection falls outside professional inspection standards so you won’t find this offered by most home inspectors.

As an investor who operates in dollars and cents, a roof gets replaced only when it must.

But, here are the things to consider:

1) Strength of the roof structure.

Can the rafters bear the weight of another layer of shingles? Is the roof structure made with 2×4 or 2×6 rafters? If it’s 2×4’s, are there strongbacks installed or wood trusses?

Prepare ahead of time so you’re not dealing with damage, money, and headaches later.

2) Condition of the bottom layer of shingles.

If the first layer of shingles is REALLY worn out, you won’t want to put another layer of shingles on top. It’ll accelerate the wear and tear so just tear them off.

3) Type of shingle material on the bottom layer.

If the first layer is wood shingle, you won’t want to put an asphalt shingle on top. If you ever sell the home, this may become a problem with your buyer’s homeowner’s insurance company.

4) Number of layers already installed.

Depending on the area of the home, you may not be able to add a second layer (a few allow up to 3 layers). Again, make sure your repairs and upgrades don’t become a bottleneck in the future sale of the home.

Radon gas is a naturally occurring radioactive gas created from the depletion of Uranium in our soil.

Radon levels in the soil outside your home range from a few hundred to several thousand pCi/L (picocuries per liter).

It is the leading cause of non-smoking lung cancer in the country. And because it causes lung cancer, the EPA established that every pCi/L of Radon gas in your home has the same cancer causing effects as smoking 1 cigarette per day.

The EPA decided that 4 pCi/L as the highest acceptable level in a home and I’ve seen levels up to 105.3.

So if the radon level in the home is 10 pCi/L, it’s like you’re smoking 10 cigarettes a day. Every single day. 7 days a week.

That means you could have the healthiest lifestyle in the world and still get sick if you’re living with high Radon.

And if you smoke, your risk is even greater.

Yes, if your home sits on the ground and you live in an area that has Radon gas.

For 2 reasons:

1) You believe it’s a health concern.

You can see we have historically high levels all over the Kansas City area (both Kansas and Missouri).

2) You believe it’s a financial concern.

It’s cheaper to test than to mitigate. So if you decide NOT to test for Radon gas when you buy your home, you’ll be crossing your fingers and hoping your buyers don’t test when you sell – or it comes back low.

Radon gas is measured in pCi/L (picocurie per liter).

Named after Marie Curie who got so close to her work she had to be buried in a coffin lined with lead.

If your Radon level comes back above 4.0 pCi/L, then the EPA protocol is to have a Radon mitigation system professionally installed. nThe system is a permanent solution to the problem and will continuously keep Radon levels within a safe range.

A mitigation system is commonly corrected using a method called “sub-slab depressurization” or “sub-slab suction”.

It works by drilling a 6″ hole in the foundation floor (aka suction point) then inserting A PVC pipe into the hole.

A suction fan is attached and the pipe is extended outside the home.

The fan then draws the radon gas from beneath the home and vents it to the atmosphere.n

A radon mitigation system can cost between $695 – $2500 and the fan lasts roughly 10 years of continuous, 24- hour use.

Sub-slab suction systems are virtually maintenance free.

Simply check the manometer (tube with red liquid) periodically. The liquid level should NOT be level with each other.

No.

You can’t see it, smell it, or taste it.

In fact, your next door neighbor can have high levels and your home can be low and vice versa.

Radon gas is a Class A Carcinogen and has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States.

Second only to cigarette smoking, and it is said to be responsible for an estimated 20,000 deaths annually.

Yes.

The age of a home is not a predictive Radon factor. Newer homes may still have high levels (and in fact, may have higher levels) since older homes are draftier and today’s new construction homes are built tighter than in the past.

This makes it less likely the gas will escape through cracks and drafts in the home.

Yes.

Since Radon comes from our soil, it breaches the home through your crawlspace floor drain, sump pit, foundation cracks, sinks, showers, and all other building envelope penetrations. n

The amount of radon that escapes from the soil and enters the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and suction within the house.

Yes. For the same reasons listed above.

If it’s sitting on the ground, radon gas enters the home.

Because the gas has infinite room to dissipate.

In other words, there’s too much room outside to get sick.

No.

The levels of Radon gas is limited to the ground the home is sitting on and varies from area to area.

As a matter of fact, I remember a story of 2 homes next door to each other being tested for Radon at the same time. One home came back 2.2 pCi/L and the other came back at 22 pCi/L.

Somewhere between $20 and $125.

The $20 test is a DIY at-home version consisting of two charcoal canisters, which you hang side-by-side from the ceiling of the lowest livable space in your home and leave for one year.

Then, you send it to the lab, and they will email you the results.

$125 is for an electronic 48-hour radon test for real estate transactions. They’re equipped with internal sensors that prevent tampering by measuring conditions like:

1. Temperature
2. Humidity
3. Barometric Pressure
4. Tilt

If the monitor is tampered with, the results become null and void, and the area must be re-tested.

You can learn about Radon gas at the EPA Radon website or on our website.

Not if the exterior doors will be propped open for long periods of time.

If the radon monitor is dropped off during the inspection and they start moving out the next day, they may not only disturb the monitor, but they might prop open outside doors.

This violates closed-home conditions which states all exterior doors and windows must stay closed for the duration of the test.

Otherwise, the results may become contaminated and the home will have to be retested.

It’s better to drop off the Radon monitor BEFORE the home inspection so that you get the Radon results back before they start moving out.

That depends on you.

Most sellers DON’T because if the result comes back high, they’re pretty much obligated to deal with it.

But, some home sellers do test. It just depends on how much information they want to know and how eager they are to find potential problems with the home.

Neither way is right or wrong.

Probably not.

New home builders treat the property for termites at the time of construction.

But, if your loan program requires a termite letter as a part of your loan package, you’ll still need to get one.

Sure.

Termites can pop up at any time so this is a smart thing to do.

If you find termites (or any other wood-destroying insect) in or around your home, call a professional pest control company so they can treat the area before they cause structural damage.

If you live in a cold winter climate, this is best done during the spring and summer months, when they are more active and easier to find.

Another thing to remember is that inspection methods vary depending on the type of wood-destroying insects in your area.

This ranges from Dry wood termites to Formosan or Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants (or even the Carpenter Bees) to Powder Post Beetles.

Lastly, there are places where you can find a combination of these guys. Like Subterranean termites and Carpenter Ants together.

They each have different inspection methods, and each leaves behind different clues.

These pointers are general in nature and don’t address a specific type of wood-destroying insect (WDI) or wood-destroying organism (WDO).

Whew! OK, let’s get going…

First, grab a flashlight and a long screwdriver. These are your tools.

Your screwdriver is for tapping on wood and stabbing any areas you might think have termites. If you also have a crawlspace or cellar you may want to put on your weekend work clothes because you’ll end up dirty before you’re done.

Next, start outside of the home.

Disturb any mulch and wood in contact with the soil as you walk around your home.

Get behind any bushes and inspect your foundation wall. Look for mud tubes, blistered wood, and pellets.

Look at your garage door frame for mud tubes and blistered wood. Open and check inside any bait traps around the perimeter of your yard.

Inside your home, start at the front door and check the walls, ceiling, baseboards, and windows. Look for termite wings, bodies, frass (piles of sawdust), mud, blistered wood, etc.

Open all exterior doors and check for wood decay at the bottom of doors and door frames.n

In the garage, walk around the perimeter looking closely at the concrete walls, garage door frame, and expansion joints for mud tubes.

Go into the attic and check gable vents for swarmer wings, pellets, and emergence holes.

If you have a basement or crawlspace, start at the ceiling and work your way down to the floor.

Look at the rim joist, subfloor, floor joists, main beam, and support posts.

Pay attention to areas of rot and moisture damage and areas between sistered joists.

Expect this to take about 1 hour to perform.

You’ll want to do this every year, especially if you live in an older, mature area.

No.

If you can see the mold there is no need to test. Fix the source, remove the mold, and repair the damage. Knowing what kind of mold you have does not eliminate the need to remove the moldy areas.

There are really only 3 situations when a mold test is necessary:

1. You get sick inside your home with flu-like symptoms and don’t know why

2. After a mold remediation and cleanup to make sure it’s all gone

3. The home you’re buying smells damp and musty, but you don’t see any mold (it might be hiding above ceilings and inside walls)

When it’s a small area.

In most cases, if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch) you can handle the job yourself. But, if you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting.

If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the EPA’s A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home. n

If you hire someone to do the cleanup, make sure they have experience cleaning up mold.

Inexperience and recklessness can do as much harm as good if mold spores get spread throughout the home (especially if your furnace or air conditioner is running). Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations provided in the EPA’s guide.

If you think there’s mold in your ductwork, read the EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before trying to clean it.

Again, be sure NOT to run the HVAC system because this will spread the mold all over the house.

Finally, if the water and/or mold damage was caused by raw sewage or other contaminated water, don’t try to do it yourself. Call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contamination.

No.

Federally Regulated protocols for mold inspections, mold testing, mold sampling, and mold remediation have not yet been established by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, OSHA or any other federal agency.

Do your due diligence when choosing a mold mitigation company and don’t be surprised if questionable-looking characters show up at your door.

There are 2 types:

1. Complete: The complete mold inspection is similar to a home inspection in its scope, but is specifically searching the home for mold or conditions which could lead to mold.

The complete mold inspection also involves moisture, temperature, and humidity measurements along with at least 4 mold samples (2 outside and 2 inside)

2. Limited: This is a mold inspection limited to a specific area of the home. It’s the test most normally performed when we can see existing mold and need to test for it.

The limited mold inspection involves at least 2 mold samples for the area of concern.

Between $250-$725

A complete mold inspection is $225 for the inspection and $125 per sample.

So a Complete mold inspection with 4 mold samples would cost $225 + $500 = $725.

A limited mold inspection will usually cost $125 per sample or a minimum of $250.

Get a mold inspection.

The mold inspector will check your home inside and out for conditions that could lead to mold and any areas where mold currently exists.

The inspector will also take mold samples to ensure there are no concealed elevated moisture levels within your home.

A mold testing company tests for mold.

A mold remediation company removes the mold and all affected areas.

Not necessarily. Get bids for repair and removal.

If the numbers still work after you’ve added them up, it could still be a sound investment.

Most mold testing results have a 48-hour turn-around time.

If they can fit you into their schedule, you still have time to get the results back before your inspection period ends.

Chinese Drywall refers to tainted drywall imported from China which corrodes copper and metal surfaces, often gives off a foul odor, and can make you sick.

There have been a few reports that homes built by large, national builders (like Pulte Homes) may have this Chinese drywall installed, leaving some room for concern.

How would you know if you’re buying a home with this drywall?

1. Does the home smell like rotten eggs or ammonia?

2. Is it more noticeable when entering your home and then seems to dissipate?

3. Chinese drywall corrodes electrical wiring. Check the electrical receptacles in your walls to see if the wires are blackened by pulling off an outlet cover or switch plate and looking inside.n

Chinese drywall is also friable, which means very small particles can easily dislodge and get into our lungs.

This is why the toxic particulates often remain even after Chinese drywall is removed from your home.

Yes, it’s called an energy audit.

A home energy audit is the first step in assessing how much energy your home consumes and evaluating what measures you can take to make it more energy efficient.

An audit will show you problem areas that can save you big bucks if corrected.

During the audit, it will become possible to pinpoint where your house is losing energy and determine the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems. It may also show you ways to conserve hot water and electricity.n

You can perform a simple energy audit yourself or have a professional energy auditor perform a more thorough audit.

An energy audit is a good idea for older homes (30+ years) and any home that could benefit from a little more efficiency from its systems and components.

The Green Home Guide.

It has excellent information about the 9 Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient.

This is something that will vary by area and you’ll also want to shop for prices since they do vary, but for the most part, the cost for a complete home energy efficiency audit will be in the ballpark of $400.

A home inspector.

A contractor is a specialist in one specific area while a home inspector is trained for this purpose. They will tell you what kind of shape the entire home is in.

Yes.

A home energy audit may be helpful. Older homes lose energy as they age, including around doors, windows, the attic, walls, appliances, and more.

Yes.

It’s common for a homeowner to reduce their utility bill up to 30% after implementing the improvements advised by the audit (almost $500 per year).

A home energy audit varies from a Home Maintenance Checkup because it focuses only on energy items. n

Things like:

• How much your home costs to operate
• Its indoor air quality
• The efficiency of the heating and cooling systems
• Energy loss of the building envelope (inside the “skin” of the home)
• It can even include an infrared camera to uncover invisible energy loss
• And what can be done to save energy and protect your environment

You have a few good ones.

1) Our 5-Point Major-Items inspection.

This bare-bones inspection checks the expensive areas of a home so you can quickly and with relatively little investment determine whether it’s a money pit or your dream home in disguise.

It includes:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof Structure (including attic)
4. Electrical System
5. HVAC

It’s usually about 60 minutes long, includes an online digital report with photos, and is delivered the same day.

But be sure all the utilities are on and the pilots are lit BEFORE the inspection starts. If the utilities are turned off, you miss the most important information about these areas.

Especially the water. In fact, the main valve must be open, and water must flow through the faucets inside the home. We won’t open the water main in a vacant home just in case there’s a leak that no one knows about.

If the water is off, we’ll stop and suggest postponing the inspection until the conditions are right.

This meaty home inspection falls outside professional standards, so most home inspectors do not offer it.

2) Our 30-Min. Homebuyer Inspection Checklist.

This checklist is our 5-Point Major-Items inspection i print.

It’s a full-color .pdf that walks you through each of the 5 major areas, showing you where to look, what to look for, and whether it should be a major concern.

You can find this for sale on our website.

3) Our UpReach^™ Free Home Inspection Program

If you’re a deserving family with an underdog story and sacrificed and saved to afford a home, but can’t afford a quality home inspection, this program is for you.

Instead of forcing you to use someone cheap, new, or just plain bad, once a month we we give away one of our Gold Packages to the first lucky family that submits a request. That’s a real investment of $865 you get for free.

Not everyone qualifies, but if you think you do, click this link and fill out the form. We’ll contact you with our decision.

That’s a hard question to answer because there’s alot I don’t know about you or your situation.

For example,

1. What is the final purchase price of the house?
2. How much are any repairs going to cost?
3. What are comparable homes selling for?
4. How long am I going to be in the home?

These are about numbers.

But there are still personal criteria for your family:

1. Does it fit my circumstances?
2. Is it close to work?
3. Is it in my budget?
4. Are there enough bedrooms and bathrooms?
5. Can I afford the maintenance? (the inspection helps here)
6. Do I have the budget for repairs? (the inspection helps here, too)

The home inspection will help you understand what kind of condition the home is in so you can decide if it works for you and your family.

Always.

Buying a home is a big decision. You’re biting off alot of responsibility with maintenance, repairs, dues, payments, and all the details in between.

But remember, you’re paying good money for a trained professional to find issues with the home. Disturbing or distracting them while they work slows them down, disrupts their focus, and increases the chance they miss something so ask your questions and express concerns BEFORE the inspection and hole them until the END.

Let your home inspector a thorough home inspection so you’re not suffering through unwelcome surprises after you move in.

This is another question I can’t really answer for you.

Your circumstances and tastes are different.

Besides, the real question being asked is, “Did you find anything that would scare you away?”

I can answer that particular question as long as you’re willing to agree that there are 5 major areas in a home:

1. Foundation
2. Plumbing
3. Roof
4. Electrical system
5. HVAC system

Those are the areas that produce 80% of all deal-killing defects and affect most buying decisions.

Yes.

This is important.

Your home is an engineering feat full of systems, components, and areas you’re now responsible for it.

1. Have questions. Write them down and ask them before the inspection or at the end.

2. Attend the inspection, but don’t distract the inspector while he’s working.

Instead, tour the home, take measurements, shadow the inspector, write down questions, and be there for the end. That’s the time to ask questions because that’s when he will have the answers.

Communication.

I remember when I first started in 2003.

I had just left NYC and was ready for something new.

When I arrived in Kansas City, I stumbled onto home inspections. It sounded fun, but I knew nothing about houses.

So I remember thinking, “How is it possible to check everything?”

I mean, there are just so many parts and pieces and systems and stuff.

And this is how alot of people feel. But, like anything else, it just takes practice. Lots of practice. In fact, years of practice.

So the better the home inspector, the better their understanding of the home, the simpler they communicate, the better you understand, and the better results you get when buying or negotiating the home.

The plumbing system.

Why? For 4 reasons:

1. Water leaks.

A home is 5 times more likely to incur water damage than fire damage. When a home becomes vacant and gets winterized (the drain lines are flushed and filled with anti-freeze), water and drain lines stop being used.

So, when the water is turned back on and the supply and drain lines are hit with the sudden surge of water pressure, the dry connections and split water lines spring a leak.

2. Cost to repair.

Water heater leakage, freezing pipes, broken washer hoses, sewer line trouble, and toilet overflows are the second most frequent insurance claim and cost more than $7B a year to fix.

3. Hidden leaks.

When a home is vacant, there’s sometimes no information about its history. That’s why it’s important to know how to operate a home and find those hidden problems before you close.

4. Mold growth.

This is the biggest reason the plumbing system is so important. Dark, humid conditions inside the home create the perfect environment for mold, which happens alot in unoccupied homes.

Once mold takes hold, you need to fix the source and repair the damage it causes.

Where do most plumbing leaks come from?

According to the insurance company Safeco:

• 30 percent were due to appliance failure

• 62 percent were due to faulty plumbing

• 8 percent were due to weather

Make sure all the utilities are turned on and the pilots are lit.

1. The gas.

For operating the water heater, furnace, and oven (if installed). The home inspector will not light pilots so make sure all pilots are lit on all appliances at least 24 hours before the inspection starts.

Because of the moving parts involved, turning on gas is often the most difficult utility to turn on.

2. The water.

Because we run water through the drain lines and check for leaks.

When a home is vacant we run the water for the duration of the inspection to make sure there are no unwelcome plumbing problems after you move in.

This is the 2nd most difficult utility to get turned on.

3. The electricity.

We need to check all electrical components and ensure they’re working properly. This includes the A/C system.

This is the easiest utility to get turned on.

Look at 6 things:

Above all else, try to get a referral from someone you trust. There’s nothing better than first-hand experience from a friend or family member.

If not, make sure:

1. To read their online reviews
2. The inspector is a full-time professional
3. The inspector belongs to a professional organization like ASHI^™ or Inter NACHI^®.
4. You understand what they’re inspecting
5. The inspector carries Errors & Omissions and General Liability insurance (to protect you and them if the inspector misses something).
6. They’re responsive, and you get along with them

This is a good, basic question. Many home buyers (and even agents) don’t exactly know what a home inspector does. So let me clear the smoke.

There are 2 aspects to every home inspection:

1st – A home inspection is a visual, non-intrusive, and fair effort to discover the real material condition of the home during the time and day the inspection takes place.

2nd – A home inspection isn’t really about the home inspector telling you what’s wrong with the home more than it is a discovery session for you to make sure you understand what you’re buying so that you can decide if it falls within your expectations and is a good fit for your situation.

You see, as a professional home inspector my job is to make sure I align the reality of the home’s condition with your expectations. If I can successfully do that, then I’ve done my job.

And that’s really it. It’s limited in scope by what can be seen and tested, which particularly applies to vacant homes where there is no past information so the inspector is forced to play detective and do the best they can during the short period of time that they’re there.

If time permits, you should be encouraged to take advantage of this rare opportunity to follow a professional around your home who will invite your questions, concerns, and impart key information and advice that will certainly help you buy your home with confidence.

At the very least, it should involve the inspection of the:

1. Landscaping
Grading and drainage	Driveways
Walkways	Porches
Decks	Patios
Walkouts	Terraces

2. Exterior
Retaining walls	Foundation
Siding, flashing, and trim	Chimneys
Windows	Window wells
Exterior doors	Exterior lighting
Outlets and switches	Ceiling fans

3. Cooling System
A/C or heat pump?	Condenser unit
Refrigerant lines	Evaporator unit
Air distribution system	Operating controls

4. Roof
Gutters and downspouts	Soffits and fascias
Roof covering	Roof ventilation
Flashings	Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations

5. Carport
Floor	Walls
Guardrail	Ceiling
Lighting	Circuit wires
Outlets	Access doors

6. Attic
Roof structure	Insulation
Attic access	Ventilation, fans, and exhaust
Skylights, chimneys, and penetrations	Circuit wiring

7. All Rooms
Floor	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Closet and door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Heat source	Smoke detector

8. Bathrooms
Functional flow	Floors
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Doors
Lighting	Ceiling fan
All outlets and switches	Exhaust fan
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drains	Vanity, cabinets, and countertops
Pantry	Toilet
Tub and enclosure	Jetted tub and enclosure
Heat source

9. Floors/Hallways/Stairways/Loft
Floors	Walls
Ceilings	All windows
Lighting	Ceiling fan
Attic fan	All outlets and switches
Closets and doors	Stairs and railings
Front door	Patio door
Smoke detectors	Heat source

10. Kitchen
Functional flow	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Door
Patio door	Lighting
Ceiling fan	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Cabinets and countertops
Pantry	Garbage disposal
Dishwasher	Stove/oven/cooktop
Range hood	Microwave
Refrigerator	Trash compactor
Heat source

11. Fireplaces and wood stoves
Fireplace or wood stove?	Front/mantle/hearth
Door/screen	Firebox
Damper control	Chimney and flue
Electric start function	Blower and fan
Gas valve

12. Garage
Roof	Exterior foundation
Exterior siding	Garage doors
Garage door openers	Floor
Walls	Ceiling
All windows	Lighting
All outlets	Circuit wiring
Patio doors	Access door
Central heating	Central cooling
Space heating	Sink

13. Basement
Stairs and railing	Floor
Foundation and walls	Ceiling/sub-floor
Rim/floor joists	Columns, beams, and posts
Vents or windows	Walkout doors
Doors	Lighting
Ceiling fans	All outlets and switches
Sink, faucet, plumbing, and drain	Circuit wiring
Insulation	Heat source
Smoke detector

14. Laundry
Floor	Walls
Ceiling	All windows
Doors	Patio door
Lighting	All outlets and switches
Tub/faucet	Trap/drain
Washer/dryer	Heat source
Smoke detector

15. Central heating
Energy source	Heating equipment
Operating controls	Safety controls
Chimneys, flues, and vents	Heat distribution system
Heat source in each living space	Smoke/CO detector in space
Furnace enclosure

16. Plumbing
Water main supply	Water main shutoff valve
Hose bibs	Distribution piping
Interior drains, waste, and vents	Fuel distribution system
Water heater	Sump pumps

17. Electrical
Service entrance	Distribution panel
Sub-panel	Grounding
Circuit wiring

18. Fire safety

19. Appliances (that stay with home)

You should be present and actively involved in what will surely become an on-site education on the finer points of your new home.

At its best, your inspection will see you actively participate and involved in what will become an on-site educational course on the finer points of your home.

This is an important question because it makes sure you understand the limitations of a home inspection and will not be disappointed later.

In fact, a few things are excluded from a home inspection, and some might not get inspected or tested because the inspector cannot access them.

These are the most common items that are normally excluded from a home inspection:

1. A home’s market value
2. A home’s property lines
3. Cosmetic items
4. Wear-and-tear items (carpet, holes in walls, scratches, paint, knobs, etc.)
5. Swimming pools
6. Hot tubs
7. Sprinkler systems
8. Telephone lines
9. Fences
10. Cable lines
11. Surround sound systems
12. Sewer lines
13. Insulation in walls
14. R-value of windows
15. Proper sizing of central heating unit
16. Proper sizing of central cooling unit
17. Proper sizing of water heater
18. Cost estimates for repairs

A specialized inspector can still inspect some of these items for an additional fee, but they all fall outside a normal home inspection.  

This is a list of areas you’ll want to make sure are open, unlocked, unblocked, and accessible BEFORE the inspection starts:

1. Crawlspace
2. Main electrical panels
3. Furnace panels
4. A/C condensers
5. Water heaters
6. Attic access panels
7. Detached garages
8. Closets
9. Roof

Most home inspectors will not move heavy personal items that are blocking their way because sellers can be pretty sensitive about their belongings.  

That’s why clutter, shelves, and storage items should be moved before the inspection starts.

For a complete list, here is the professional home inspector’s Standards of Practice.

Knowing this ahead of time can help you help the home inspector give you the best inspection possible.